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Butterfingers Make Me Horny
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.1 from 323
votes
Routes in The Thin Wall
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Count Your Blessings T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Child's Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Congratulations T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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No Calculators Allowed T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Count on Your Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Peculiar Taste Buds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Conservative Policies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Butterfingers Make Me Horny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chocolate is Better Than Sex T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Square Root T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Almost Vertical T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Face of Tammy Faye, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ain't Nothing but a J-Tree Thing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Felicitations T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Hidden in Plain Sight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sandbag T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Keith's Work TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford, 5/88 |
| Page Views: | 6,030 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Gram on Nov 1, 2002 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This climbs the first easy looking crack right of the roofy area under a notch in the top of the formation. The first 10 feet are the crux - be careful mantling to get to the first gear placement. After pulling past the crux move on a good fingerlock, easy fun 5.6 jug hauling with bomber stoppers leads to a good ledge where a natural gear belay can be set. Scramble up and left to chains to rap or scramble off. This ledge can be reached with some exposure to set a TR, but this is an excellent beginners lead requiring only a set of stoppers.
The Vogel guidebook calls this 5.9 but it is a one move wonder, and that move didn't feel any harder than 5.8 Mostly fun 5.6
The Vogel guidebook calls this 5.9 but it is a one move wonder, and that move didn't feel any harder than 5.8 Mostly fun 5.6
6 Comments