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Dung Fu
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.6 from 407
votes
Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)
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Sea Monkeys T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Ant Farm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Horn Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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More Funky Than Junky T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Roadrunner, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Smoke-a-Bowl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rock Wren T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Merry-Go-Round Broke Down T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hernie, Hernie, Hernie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Funky Dung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Overseer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Overseer Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Old Man and the Arete, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dung Fu T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pig in Heat T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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White Lightning T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Poodles are People Too T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Man's Best Friend T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Poodlesby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Coyote Bait T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Such a Poodle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Golden Years T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Feltonian Physics T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gift Wrapped TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Prepackaged T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sun Also Rises, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | John Long, Rick Accomazzo & Richard Harrison 2/73 |
| Page Views: | 9,827 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Rob "rk" Kalinowski on Jan 3, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is the small right facing dihedral/ big crack just to the left of Pigs in Heat, which makes it two routes to the left of White Lightning. A good alternative when waiting for White Lighting, as it is the same grade, however the climbing here is more varied and less straight forward. It is basically the next big crack to the left of While Lightning, the one that opens up to a wide chimney about 2/3 the way up.
Start up the right facing dihedral/crack and place bomber gear. Make a few delicate face moves (7) and get up into the chimney. This looks intimidating, but don't worry, you can do it. Move towards the rear of the chimney, and begin up it. Place a small cam if you want near the back as you move up. The moves are surprisingly good. Use your feet and chimney!!! Move up and out to the left where you should be able to place a #3 cam to ease the mind. Move up past a tree, and into another chimney. I went up the the right out of this, or you can go underneath and then up. (watch rope drag!!). You can belay from the ledge on top (a bit to the right). The varied climbing here will toughen you up and make White Lightning easier, and also get you in a Chimney while you wait for the classic. Not a bad climb here!
Descent- do the double rope rap above and right of White Lightning, on two bolts in front of two large boulders., Or, a 70m will get you down with just a few feet to spare.
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