[Hide Comment] A beautiful route in a beautiful setting. Passive pro works very well in this crack. The second pitch is completely different from the first crack pitch but should not be missed especially considering that the summit of Lenticular Dome is a great viewpoint, the walkoff descent is fine. Jan 5, 2003

[Hide Comment] Both this climb and Dazed And Confused can be done in a single pitch with a 60 meter rope. Apr 7, 2003

[Hide Comment] Very nice route. Yes, people do it barefoot, but who cares? The wander to the bolt on the second pitch is cool. One can examine DandC while leading this. Highly recommended. Jun 22, 2004

[Hide Comment] Splendiferous! Another must-do in my book. Worth the hike in, nice sun exposure, overall I was a happy camper. When I think of fun days, I think of that time with Mindy getting lost in San Fran and the day I climbed this route. Jun 22, 2004

[Hide Comment] The second pitch seemed to me to be solid 5.7 for the first 10-12 feet past the two-bolt anchors, then it eased off to 5.4 for the next 15 feet to the only (bomber) protection bolt. From there to the top is also no more than 5.4. Dec 2, 2006

[Hide Comment] Such a great route! Definitely a must do. Very well protected. Most of the moves are probably 5.6 (with only a couple 5.7 thrown in), but given how continuous and sustained it is, I think it deserves a solid 5.7. Jan 11, 2009

[Hide Comment] Excellent route and highly recommended. Run the two pitches together and belay from the top off 2 #1 cams. Nov 8, 2009

[Hide Comment] Linked both pitches and belayed from the 2 bolt anchor atop D&C with a 60m.

"P1" was straightforward, almost entirely nuts. Didn't use anything bigger than a #1 BD C4. For "P2", from the 2 bolt anchor 100' up the character of the climb changes entirely and I had a hard time remembering if the single bolt visible 40' up was on route, as it trends left. Felt a bit runout getting to it.

Phenomenal climbing, exposure, and location. Well worth the trek. Nov 10, 2011

[Hide Comment] The 2nd pitch is slabby and very run out.

From the 2 bolt anchors at the top of the first pitch, it's probably 30+ feet to the first (only?) bolt. If you fall before you clip that bolt, you could take a 60+ foot factor 2 fall onto the belay, bouncing down the slab.

The first pitch is easily protected with a standard rack. I used medium and large cams (up to #3 Camalot) for the most part. If I'd had a #4, I would have placed it too. Nov 3, 2014

[Hide Comment] Very fun line, can be crowded. If there is no one waiting, this is a very fun line to speed climb...either on TR or leading. 80 seconds was our best for the first pitch! Dec 16, 2014

[Hide Comment] First pitch takes great pro and is fantastic, never too difficult and certainly not 7+. Second pitch is typical Josh bullshit with 1 bolt on the entire pitch...totally unnecessary and stupid. Yes, the climbing is easy, but you're looking at a 60 ft FF2 onto the belay if you happen to pop off. In many places the hands are not great so you are looking at pure friction (albeit easy) for most of the pitch until it eases up significantly 15 feet or so after the only bolt.

I guess my head wasn't in it and/or I'm getting soft, but I just don't understand the logic in that style of bolting. Feb 22, 2016

[Hide Comment] Great! The second pitch only has 3-4 memorable moves but they are not to be missed. Throw a Jesus piece on your anchor and hike up the featured face. Nov 10, 2021

[Hide Comment] Super fun classic line. Lots of jamming with ample jugs to supplement. Very sustained at 5.6+ / 5.7 with a 7+ crux at about 30 feet. The gear is excellent. Bring triples of .5 to 2 inches, and a couple of 3-inch cams if you really want to sew it up. If you bring a 4-inch cam you'll find a placement for it, but it's not necessary. No need to put slings on cams. 1st pitch can be TRed with a 70m rope. Budget 30 minutes for the approach if you know exactly where to go, otherwise budget 45+ minutes. Feb 20, 2022

[Hide Comment] For the second pitch, I found going left to be easier with actual hand holds compared to going right which felt like a 5.9+ slab. I also continued while on lead past the P1 anchors to clip the bolt while my belayer was still on the ground to prevent a factor 2 fall. Once clipped, I was lowered back to the anchors. I clipped myself to a Prusik on the belayer's rope side so that if the bolt failed before I made it to the anchor, I wouldn't fall so far. Nov 1, 2022

[Hide Comment] The crux of this climb is getting there. Best to have an offline gps app like gaia or all trails and read up on the mountain project approach. Luckily the astro dome is pretty hard to miss and means you're almost there. Great route and worth the trek.

You will not be able to see the bolt from the first set of anchors but trend left for few moves and it will come into sight.

The slab section is run out but has pretty good hand holds throughout and I only remember a move or two of smearing so don't let that stop you from going the full distance.

If you're curious about the slab section or any other part of the climb here's a video

youtu.be/gU7SLcRSOL8 Jun 8, 2023

[Hide Comment] Stellar crack followed by engaging run out 5.7 moves before the next bolt. What a change up, linked in 1 pitch. Jan 8, 2024

[Hide Comment] Based on the first few comments here, I thought I’d be using all small gear and nuts. Instead, I ran out of all of my larger pieces (.75-#3) about halfway up and could even have used a #4 & the 2nd #3 that I left behind. Nov 18, 2024