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> Joshua Tree NP
> Hidden Valley Area
> Hidden Valley C…
> Old Woman
> Old Woman - E Face
Bearded Cabbage
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 368
votes
Routes in The Old Woman - East Face
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Bearded Cabbage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Buttered Croissant T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Church Bazaar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Deviate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dynamic Panic T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Geronimo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hinterstoisser Traverse, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Judas T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Spider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spider Line T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tabby Litter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Toe Jam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | John Long and Richard Harrison, December 1973 |
| Page Views: | 18,803 total · 65/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Apr 13, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is a fun and interesting route!
Approach as for ToeJam or Judas and look up and to the right. You will see a upward and left-rising "near-horizontal flake" coming into from the far right side of the East Face slab of the Old Woman. Above this feature there is a single bolt in the relatively short and blank section of rock between the horizontal and a vertical jam crack. Only the vertical handcrack system is visible in the attached photo.
To climb this route, scramble up and to the right onto a group of boulders, as for Spider Line. This is approximately half way between Geranimo and Toe Jam. Traverse out left to reach the good horizontal/flake, and continue on that flake, placing a cam in it if you so desire. The pro is not textbook, but the climbing here is only 5.8. (but pumpy if you hang out much) Climb to the left hand end of the horizontal and clip a good bolt. This will be your pro for the crux and it seems to be quite trust-worthy. Make a big 5.10c move into the handcrack to the left. This can be done one of a few ways- dyno into a handjam, or pull a balancy lay-back type move. Both felt somewhat difficult. After getting a good jam (better for wide hands), make one more move to establish a good position from which to place gear. From there go up the crack a way (5.8) and when it peters out, move over just a few feet left to a second crack. Climb this to a set of rap anchors on top (Shared with Chongo Bolt Route).
Approach as for ToeJam or Judas and look up and to the right. You will see a upward and left-rising "near-horizontal flake" coming into from the far right side of the East Face slab of the Old Woman. Above this feature there is a single bolt in the relatively short and blank section of rock between the horizontal and a vertical jam crack. Only the vertical handcrack system is visible in the attached photo.
To climb this route, scramble up and to the right onto a group of boulders, as for Spider Line. This is approximately half way between Geranimo and Toe Jam. Traverse out left to reach the good horizontal/flake, and continue on that flake, placing a cam in it if you so desire. The pro is not textbook, but the climbing here is only 5.8. (but pumpy if you hang out much) Climb to the left hand end of the horizontal and clip a good bolt. This will be your pro for the crux and it seems to be quite trust-worthy. Make a big 5.10c move into the handcrack to the left. This can be done one of a few ways- dyno into a handjam, or pull a balancy lay-back type move. Both felt somewhat difficult. After getting a good jam (better for wide hands), make one more move to establish a good position from which to place gear. From there go up the crack a way (5.8) and when it peters out, move over just a few feet left to a second crack. Climb this to a set of rap anchors on top (Shared with Chongo Bolt Route).
Protection
This climb has a overhanging jug-traverse with a few spots where you can get in a cam, a crux protected by a single good bolt, and the rest of the climb is a vertical jam crack protected by hand-sized cams.
Take a rack with a set of cams from meduim TCU's (1") to large-hands (3") plus a few nuts along.
Take a rack with a set of cams from meduim TCU's (1") to large-hands (3") plus a few nuts along.
Photos
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