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> Joshua Tree NP
> Hidden Valley Area
> Hidden Valley C…
> Old Woman
> Old Woman - E Face
Geronimo
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3 from 186
votes
Routes in The Old Woman - East Face
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Bearded Cabbage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Buttered Croissant T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Church Bazaar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Deviate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dynamic Panic T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Geronimo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hinterstoisser Traverse, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Judas T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Spider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spider Line T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tabby Litter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Toe Jam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 30 ft (9 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01667, -116.16367 |
| FA: | Phil Haney, John Mokri and Bob Dominick, November 1970 |
| Page Views: | 15,850 total · 55/month |
| Shared By: | Adam Stackhouse on Jun 20, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
I'm sure there are many ways to get to this route. I have never approached it from the east side, but I know you can get to a set of anchors just below the top on the east side by downclimbing a short chute off the top of the Old Woman. From those anchors, traverse across right to the base of the crack splitting the overhanging roof. Get the #4 in the bottom of the crack, kneebar, schooch up, get some more pro, and you can make a loooong reach up and inside to the inside edge at the top. Then move out and do some serious jungle-gym moves (caution: burly) to get up and over the top of the crack. Although short, this is a very cool route!!!
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