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> Old Woman - E Face
Toe Jam
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.7 from 1,100 votes
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Jerry Gallwas, George Scheiff & Gary Hemming, November 1952 |
Page Views: | 47,058 total · 172/month |
Shared By: | Mike Morley on May 8, 2002 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
From the bulletin board at Hidden Valley Campground, turn around and walk approximately 50' west to the base of the route.
Jam up hand crack for 10', then angle diagonally up and right. About two-thirds of the way up the route, step left and continue up vertical finger crack (crux) to top.
Belay on gear, NOT the bolted anchor to the right.
Descent: Single rope rappel from 2-bolt anchor 20' right of the top of the climb.
Safety Note: I have witnessed multiple parties attempting to toprope the route off of the rap anchors which lie 20' to the right of the route. Really bad idea, as a fall would result in a phenomenal swing to the right.
Jam up hand crack for 10', then angle diagonally up and right. About two-thirds of the way up the route, step left and continue up vertical finger crack (crux) to top.
Belay on gear, NOT the bolted anchor to the right.
Descent: Single rope rappel from 2-bolt anchor 20' right of the top of the climb.
Safety Note: I have witnessed multiple parties attempting to toprope the route off of the rap anchors which lie 20' to the right of the route. Really bad idea, as a fall would result in a phenomenal swing to the right.
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