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Routes in The Optimator
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Flying Lizard T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ditch 'em T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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[Redacted] T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sardikar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Soul Fire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Jive Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Chick Flick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fourth Dementia, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Jungle Juice T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C1 |
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Lady Pillar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Long Island Iced Tea T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Annunaki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Backside Luge T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Mudslide T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Unnamed 11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Choss Eliminate T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Bow Flex T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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90 proof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gunning For Gonzo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Casey's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kitchen Sink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Also Charlie's Pillar (aka Brodie Machine) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Charlie's Pillar Direct Start T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Charlie's Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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St. Pauli Girl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Neat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hayutake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Hayutake [direct start] T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Boriqua T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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No Pueda T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Season of the Worm, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Ram Implosion Wing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Road Soda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Two Scoops T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Optimator T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Double Bock T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Hefe Weissen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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He Brews T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Cobweb Splitter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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El Cubano T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pat's Blue Ribbon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Herbie's King Cobra T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Lucky Lager T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Miller Genuine Draft T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Beer Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Keith Reynolds |
| Page Views: | 47,029 total · 198/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 28, 2005 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This climb is found by following the trail right until it goes behind the leaning Annunaki Pillar. Just as you exit this, you will see a 3" crack that thins to 1" as it climbs 50' zig-zagging wildly through clings on it's way to a set of anchors. This is on the underbelly of the leaning pillar that faces the wall and is one of the steeper splitters in the creek, albeit a short route.
Climb up perfect hands for the first half of the route and get ready to gymnastically gun for the top before getting pumped. You may find the route easy for it's assigned grade, but may also find that it is more or less face climbing the diagonal features of the crack, toe hooking, back-stepping and flagging off of the features than it is about jamming. Thus, it is likely easier for the strong-shouldered and long-armed, and hand size might not matter as much as for other climbs.
Climb up perfect hands for the first half of the route and get ready to gymnastically gun for the top before getting pumped. You may find the route easy for it's assigned grade, but may also find that it is more or less face climbing the diagonal features of the crack, toe hooking, back-stepping and flagging off of the features than it is about jamming. Thus, it is likely easier for the strong-shouldered and long-armed, and hand size might not matter as much as for other climbs.
Photos
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