PRINT: Rock Climb Shadowfax, Southeast Utah

Shadowfax

5.11a PG13, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 2.6 from 36 votes
FA: Kyle Copeland, Bego Gerhart, July 1989
Utah > Southeast Utah > Potash Rd > Wall Street

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Recently there has been a rash of human poops along Wall Street. There are bathrooms in the campgrounds a half mile from popular crags here. Use them. Otherwise, portable toilet systems are required in Grand County. Be prepared to carry human waste out on the trail.

Description

This is a fine route that can be found between a bushy crack and sandy floored chimney about 50 yards to the right of the Indian drawings on Wallstreet. It doesn't seem to get much traffic, possibly due to the runout to the first pin. If you climb even near the grade the first bit to this pin shouldn't be a problem. The crux is found between the third and fourth pin where a small bulge must be passed with very thin feet and minimal hands.

Protection

Five bolts to a 3 point anchor. A .3 BD C4 or Green Alien sized piece can be placed between the 4th & 5th bolts if desired.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sketchy start, great rewards.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ben Mackall
Bozeman, MT

That first bolt is high but the moves to get to it really aren't that hard. If you are at all comfortable pulling 5.10- (or even 5.9) moves, there is no way that this thing deserves an R rating. PG at the VERY most. May 15, 2015

Joe Stern
Moab, Utah

5.11-

FA: Kyle Copeland, Bego Gerhart, July 1989. Apr 6, 2018

Thibault Charbonnier
Marin County, CA

Great climb and happy with this os but wondering what is the deal with having such high first bolts at this crag, even stick clips can't reach them. The moves are fine but the friction really is not, take your time to blow-off the sand in all the edges you come across as you go up, the moves are easy but you risk slipping off a sandy edge. If you ask me all these high first bolts do is enforce some sort of pedantic gatekeeping. "If you can't do the first bolt don't go on it" -> gatekeeping bs. Oct 19, 2023

alex Mankouski
Salt Lake City, UT

I did this route yesterday. My opinion is that if you can't get to the first bolt, then you shouldn't get on the route at all. The start is the easy part of the route by far. Honestly, though I think it should stay that way because it makes the route interesting. There are a lot of other good routes that are well protected. I say we keep this one more sketchy. Nov 13, 2023