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Routes in Way Rambo
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Ninja in the Shadows T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Farkle For It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wishbone Suspension T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Coppertone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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A Tale of Two Sheep T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cockometer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Good Times T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Grindhouse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Serrator Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Layaway Plan T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Layoff plan TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Desire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Slice and Dice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Ginzu T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Closed Course T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Renegades of Funk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Kelley Route #16 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Expendables 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Expendables 1 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Monk, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Way Nutter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fix Your Tips? T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Blue Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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First Blood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Way Rambo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rochambeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fuzz T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Inhabitants, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Host, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Hostess, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Steve Petro and Gordon Douglass |
| Page Views: | 41,675 total · 171/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Dawson on Mar 11, 2005 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Access Issue: Way Putter/Nutter route Permanently Closed
Details
The route Way Putter/Nutter has been permanently closed.
Please do not climb this route in order to protect cultural resources.
Climbing The Nutter/Way Putter damages sensitive cultural resources. Please stay within the designated trail, and keep dogs on leash in this area.
Access Fund and BLM conducted a site visit and have mutually agreed this route should be closed for cultural resource protection. If you have any questions or concerns please contact the Monticello BLM Field Office: apefferman@blm.gov
Please do not climb this route in order to protect cultural resources.
Climbing The Nutter/Way Putter damages sensitive cultural resources. Please stay within the designated trail, and keep dogs on leash in this area.
Access Fund and BLM conducted a site visit and have mutually agreed this route should be closed for cultural resource protection. If you have any questions or concerns please contact the Monticello BLM Field Office: apefferman@blm.gov
Description
Way Rambo is located near the top of the approach trail to the Rambo Wall. Upon reaching the top of the trail and the routes Rochambeau and the Fuzz (or whatever that long-ass 5.10 hand crack is), head left around the corner and look up. You'll see an incredibly striking hands - thin hands - off fingers splitter with two distinct leftward hand traverses, one at 30 and one at 80 feet approximately. This is the crag's namesake and one of the more fabulous and kick ass cracks around. The basic consensus is 'way bitchin' and 'way fuckingradman' and, my own creation, 'way butter', a play on way nutter. The first half of the pitch is 5.10, and as the crack narrows the grade steepens.
Protection
The guide suggests about ten pieces of pro. 4 in the 2.5 in. range, and 2 or 3 2, 1.5, and 1 inch pieces. which breaks down to 2 #2 camalots, 2 or 3 #1 camalots, and what in my experience was basically #.75 camalots to the top of the pitch. although a slightly smaller piece will fit (i.e. a red metolius, etc. towards the end of the pitch).
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