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Kelley Route #16

5.10+, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 78 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Way Rambo
Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Way Putter/Nutter route Permanently Closed DetailsDrop down

Description

This takes a right-facing corner just left of The Monk. The corner has a step in it half way up. Slightly loose and a bit of thrutching near the top.

Protection

Mostly hands, some fist-size pieces too.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This climb is mostly hands size but near the top it opens up and is quite large. Fun climb. Here Bob approaches the step, once there it's about another 20' to the top of the route.
[Hide Photo] This climb is mostly hands size but near the top it opens up and is quite large. Fun climb. Here Bob approaches the step, once there it's about another 20' to the top of the route.
Gets a little wide at the top.
[Hide Photo] Gets a little wide at the top.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Our rack: 1 #1 (to back up double pin anchor for TR), 4 #2, 3 #3, 1 #4, 1 #4.5, 1 #5 Probably overkill, but you won't have to walk anything. Beta hint: layback the wide sections. Oct 22, 2007
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Cool route. First section is similar to Amaretto Corner P1 on Supercrack. If the biggest piece yo take is a #4 C4 then yo could hit the ledge if you blow the moves at the top wide section. Although probably completely unnecessary I took a #5 and a #6 and was happy to have them up high. CL Oct 16, 2009
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Had fun on this one. Was told hands to wide hands. For the most part, this is pretty accurate, lots of blues and yellows. Then it got wider... And wider. My single #4 made the end pretty spicy. Bring a 5 and, if you have it, an extra 4.

Pretty great climb, though. Didn't wear a shirt and my shoulder and back got pretty thrashed on the end. Long and good climb. Apr 20, 2012
NickinCO
colorado
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Guide book is way off on this one (bloom 1st edition) it calls for one #4. To properly protect you would need a 4, 5, and 6 or you risk a fall onto a ledge 60ish feet up. Would have been better with the proper gear. Oct 22, 2012
Matt Pierce
Poncha Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] The Bloom IC guide has the gear listed wrong - the #3's are listed twice and there is no mention of a #6. This route has a few spots wider than a #4 - we found 2 #5's handy and a #6 at the very top seemed a requirement for me - was glad we had one. Nov 1, 2016
Mark van Eijk
 
[Hide Comment] As others have mentioned, the guidebook's gear recommendation seems flawed, perhaps it is based on old camalot sizing? In modern sizes the route runs 2 #2, 4 #3, 2 #4, 1 #5, 1 #6 (spooky top without the 6). The OW pod may be a little dusty, but it's great fun! Apr 1, 2018
Mark Thomas
Broomfield, CO
[Hide Comment] This is route #16 in the Creek Freak guide. Oct 12, 2020
Harlin Brandvold
Vancouver, BC
[Hide Comment] I was able to protect the finish well with a single 5. 6 is not necessary. Mar 29, 2021