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Tippin The Bottle
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 27
votes
Routes in Bottleneck Peak
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Alaska Gold T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A3 |
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Langdon Route (Northwest Face) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 |
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Tippin The Bottle T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Woody's Roofs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A2 |
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Zoomerang T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Mike Pennings and Doug Hall |
| Page Views: | 8,148 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | J. DuBois on Mar 27, 2004 · Updates |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Description
Tippin the Bottle is located on the North face of Bottleneck Peak. 50' right of Woody's roofs, and 20' left of the Langdon Route. It follows a beautiful crack system straight up for three great pitches with a short, chossy 4th-class scramble to the summit.
Pitch 1: Climb a sandy handcrack aiming for splitter roof. Stem out past the wild thin-hands roof crack and pull into the "Banana Splitter" an arching finger-and-hand crack for 30'. Reach another roof and undercling/layback left, up into a crack system and belay below a weird inverted v-slot. Save a couple hand-size cams for this belay and you'll be happy.175' 5.11-
Pitch 2: The BIZZNESS! climb up through the v-slot, strenuous 5.10, then breathe deep and send the overhanging fingers in the corner above. Pass one great rest, into thin hands and a large belay ledge, with a cave just above. I can't say enough good things about this pitch, simply spectacular!!! 100' 5.11++
Pitch 3: Pull a weird thin move into the cave 10+,and figure out the offwidth/fistcrack roof out of it. Follow this crack with hands to a ledge, and climb a huge thin flake 5.8 towards some horrid loose shit. CAREFULLY stem around the loose blocks (5.9), marginal gear below (save a #3 or #4 Camalot for just below this section) and pull on to a large ledge PHEW! 125' 5.11- (note rap anchors here)
Now leave the rack and scramble gingerly up to the cool summit. There is an interesting summit register up there to check out. The raps are fairly straightforward: three double raps down from the top of pitch 3, toward the west, and down the Langdon route.
A great obscure tower route, well done by Pennings and the late Doug Hall.
Pitch 1: Climb a sandy handcrack aiming for splitter roof. Stem out past the wild thin-hands roof crack and pull into the "Banana Splitter" an arching finger-and-hand crack for 30'. Reach another roof and undercling/layback left, up into a crack system and belay below a weird inverted v-slot. Save a couple hand-size cams for this belay and you'll be happy.175' 5.11-
Pitch 2: The BIZZNESS! climb up through the v-slot, strenuous 5.10, then breathe deep and send the overhanging fingers in the corner above. Pass one great rest, into thin hands and a large belay ledge, with a cave just above. I can't say enough good things about this pitch, simply spectacular!!! 100' 5.11++
Pitch 3: Pull a weird thin move into the cave 10+,and figure out the offwidth/fistcrack roof out of it. Follow this crack with hands to a ledge, and climb a huge thin flake 5.8 towards some horrid loose shit. CAREFULLY stem around the loose blocks (5.9), marginal gear below (save a #3 or #4 Camalot for just below this section) and pull on to a large ledge PHEW! 125' 5.11- (note rap anchors here)
Now leave the rack and scramble gingerly up to the cool summit. There is an interesting summit register up there to check out. The raps are fairly straightforward: three double raps down from the top of pitch 3, toward the west, and down the Langdon route.
A great obscure tower route, well done by Pennings and the late Doug Hall.
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