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Routes in Dead Mans Spires
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Hermit's Hovel - Mystery Incident T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 PG13 |
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Lazarus Spire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
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Redemption Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 R |
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Resurrection Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Paul Ross Layne Potter |
| Page Views: | 5,540 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Ross on Oct 15, 2003 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Description
Resurrection Spire. 300' III 5.9. C1.
This spire is on the left end (west) of the large spires above the campsite. The central spire also has a route on its north side. It looks a very good line, probably done in the 80s by as yet unknown climbers.
There are several approaches, the easiest is by a stone chute below and right of the three smaller spire formations. Then walk below these smaller spires to the far end and north side of the big spires to Resurrection(one will pass the 80s route up the central spire). Continue to a chimney with a hand crack on its inner wall.
P1) Up the chimney and the hand crack to anchors below a fine slightly overhanging 1" crack. 100' 5.9.(An old failed attempt will be seen about 30' to the right of this pitch)
P2) Follow cracks and grooves to anchors 80' C1. May go free at 5.11+?
P3) Move out left onto a slab, then up right to a steep wall, then left into open groove, (one bolt pro) that leads to the shoulder left of summit. 60' 5.8.
P4) The first step is climbed using three bolts, then continue up second step to a fine summit and register. 60' A0 5.7.
Descend the route via rappel. FA. Paul Ross, Layne Potter. 16th Oct 2003
This spire is on the left end (west) of the large spires above the campsite. The central spire also has a route on its north side. It looks a very good line, probably done in the 80s by as yet unknown climbers.
There are several approaches, the easiest is by a stone chute below and right of the three smaller spire formations. Then walk below these smaller spires to the far end and north side of the big spires to Resurrection(one will pass the 80s route up the central spire). Continue to a chimney with a hand crack on its inner wall.
P1) Up the chimney and the hand crack to anchors below a fine slightly overhanging 1" crack. 100' 5.9.(An old failed attempt will be seen about 30' to the right of this pitch)
P2) Follow cracks and grooves to anchors 80' C1. May go free at 5.11+?
P3) Move out left onto a slab, then up right to a steep wall, then left into open groove, (one bolt pro) that leads to the shoulder left of summit. 60' 5.8.
P4) The first step is climbed using three bolts, then continue up second step to a fine summit and register. 60' A0 5.7.
Descend the route via rappel. FA. Paul Ross, Layne Potter. 16th Oct 2003
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