Supercrack of the Desert (aka Luxury Liner)
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British Steep Snow
Type: | Trad, Snow, 3 pitches |
FA: | Earl Wiggins, Ed Webster, Bryan Becker 11/1976 |
Page Views: | 147,079 total · 512/month |
Shared By: | Darin Lang on Oct 13, 2001 · Updates |
Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This route is, well, super.
Originally named Luxury Liner, this line has adopted the name Super Crack. Climb up the side of the detached flake (1.5 or 2 Friend) through the awkward crux (maybe 10c) to a top-of-the-flake ledge right below the crack. Although decent gear is available, groundfalls have occurred here, so heads-up. Climb the crack (sustained 5.9) for 80 feet, past the roof to a bolted anchor. While I typically don't like to give away the detailed beta, I'll make an exception here: hand jam, foot jam, hand jam, foot jam ... The crack widens a bit for the last 15 feet, so depending on the size of your mitts, you may have to revise this beta to include a cupped hand or two, and maybe even a fist.
A 60m rope will just barely reach from the anchor for the rappel/TR. While it probably goes without saying, TR through draws and not the anchor.
New full-length film from Rock and Ice on the first ascent of this line: rockandice.com/videos/climb…
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