PRINT: Rock Climb New Wave, Devils Tower

New Wave

5.10a, Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 3.3 from 236 votes
FA: Larsen & Horning - 1982
Wyoming > Devils Tower > E & Northeast Buttres…

Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE

The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.

Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.

Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…

Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…

Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.

Description

What a fantastic climb! We climbed this as an approach to Assembly Line - it starts at the Broken Tree area and finishes on top of the pillar where Assembly Line begins. Just to the right of this line is "Broken Tree" - another 10a that follows an obvious steep dihedral formed by, I believe, the Everlasting column.

I led this whole thing in one pitch using a 70m rope - this is definitely the way to do the climb: even with a 60, have your partner tied in and ready to move up the pillar after you as you reach near the top - you will use all the rope. The climb starts off on a ramp and crack and gradually gets steeper and steeper, culminating in a very off-balance step-right move at the bolt. This move is very reminiscent of the crux of p1 of C'est La Vie in Eldorado Canyon in Boulder. Fantastic!

The climbing after this move is still quite difficult (but there are stances), easing after 15'. The climb culminates in 20' of perfect hand crack.

Protection

Stoppers, friends. Mostly thin. There is a pin en-route to the crux and a bomber bolt protecting the crux. Fixed anchors. I used a pair of #2 camalots, but definitely nothing larger.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mary Erdei above the crux in July 1985.

New Wave line

close up of second pitch

What a comfortable belay ledge!

Kat A past the crux on Assembly Line (10a) and into the good handcrack above.

UFC girls who climb!

Joe Varela on New Wave

View of New Wave from the base. The route goes up the crack system above the small tree on the left side of the photo.

Ridin the wave with Emma Sherman (Erma Sherma)

Lyn following at the top of the pitch

Tony getting psyched on some sweet rock at Devil's Tower. photo by Alex Fox

The splitter hand crack at the top of New Wave.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Graham Rogers

Take the quick yet dicey balance moves of New Wave for 110' to get to the Assembly Line pump. May 29, 2003

John Gunnels
Gillette, WY

5.10a

This should be the first 10 you do on the Tower. Great moves... great rests... solid pro...

Wow... sounds like a lot of OTHER Tower 10's... Apr 8, 2006

nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO

New Wave is fer shur THE way to get to the goodness of Assemblyline. Although not a top-quality Tower route, it beats the daylights out of the humdrum stuff out to the left. Good luck getting on it, though - there's usually a mob scene at the base. Aug 25, 2006

Cameron Luth

This route is a sweet 10. The crux is kind of different. The climb is awesome and has a great view, if you like climbing 10s I would highly recommend it. Sep 25, 2006

Meredith DB
Boulder, CO

5.10a

This route is super fun. Compared to other Devil's Tower routes, it felt much less sustained. Oct 6, 2007

Jim Browsky
Denver

This route is good fun. The second pitch is one of the better pitches I did while I was at the tower. The moves are varied and the rock is pretty good. Jun 1, 2009

phatline
Burlingame, CA

I agree with Dr. Evil that it feels easy for the grade--because of the varied moves (face, finger, hand) and plenty of rests. But there are definitely a couple of hard moves. I saw someone take a terrible fall from the rest above the bolt (15' above?); according to people on the ground he fell all the way to his belayer on the slabs. So, an "easy" Tower 5.10a, but still come prepared to climb 5.10a. Jun 6, 2009

Tyler V
Woodbury, MN

5.10a

This was my first 10 on the Tower and I loved every second of it. The route starts off easy and just gets harder and harder all the way to the crux where the really balancy moves take over. The gear is solid but a little run out in places, though you can find good stances all over. I didn't carry anything smaller than a #7 BD nut, but if I did it again, I would probably carry a couple nuts in the 5-6 BD range.

The splitter hand crack at the top 20 ft of the climb makes for a total confidence booster after the adrenaline rush at the crux.

A must do if you want to start climbing 10s on the Tower. Sep 23, 2009

Sean Nelb
Grand Junction, CO

The crux has a variation that goes straight up instead of doing the rightward traverse by the bolt. This uses thin edges and sidepulls and is probably 5.11. Sep 3, 2012

Kyle Goupil
Salt Lake City

5.10b

This is the best 10a route I have ever climbed. I would highly recommend it. Super fun! Jun 14, 2017

Backwards Eric
Fargo, ND

My rack recommendation (doing as one pitch w/ a 70m rope): doubles from #1 C4 down (a .2 and .1 might be handy also) and nuts. Save a #2 for the last 15 feet of perfect hand crack (or not, the jams are so good up there). The crux move on this is protected by a bolt. Oct 8, 2018

G Wood
yosemite

Not my type of route but something different at the Tower. I found the crux to be tricky for 10a! Aug 24, 2019

j mo
n az

There are very loose and very large stacked blocks on p2. Be careful. Oct 17, 2021

Mitchell McAuslan
Spokane, WA

5.10b/c

Pretty stout for the grade. The bolt that protects the crux needs replacement and there is about a 10-12 foot run out after the crux, spicy. New wave will take you to the second pitch of assembly line which is an awesome pitch of climbing. Aug 24, 2023