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Routes in Dire Spire
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Conn Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Dead Men Don't Wear Plaid T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Engagement, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Impeachable Offense T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Punching In A Dream S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Questionable Ink T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Snakebite Evangelist S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Herb and Jann Conn |
| Page Views: | 2,940 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Gram on Jul 3, 2002 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
A Needles style route right in the heart of Rushmore.
From the back of the spire(facing away from the road), climb a large chimney system until it blanks out against the upper part of the spire. Turn right, tunnel in, and then turn left into another chimney which takes you to a fantastic belay ledge at the base of the upper spire. This pitch protects well, but use very long runners as it is in the pitch travels in the shape of a big Z.
For pitch 2, take a deep breath and launch up the friction and crystal face. I only remember one bolt on this pitch, but there may be two. Regardless, it is very runout and frightening - falling before clipping the first bolt or just before reaching the summit will put you in the hurt locker for a long time.
This is the best summit at Rushmore, and one of the best perches in the Needles. A double rope rap leads to the start of the route.
From the back of the spire(facing away from the road), climb a large chimney system until it blanks out against the upper part of the spire. Turn right, tunnel in, and then turn left into another chimney which takes you to a fantastic belay ledge at the base of the upper spire. This pitch protects well, but use very long runners as it is in the pitch travels in the shape of a big Z.
For pitch 2, take a deep breath and launch up the friction and crystal face. I only remember one bolt on this pitch, but there may be two. Regardless, it is very runout and frightening - falling before clipping the first bolt or just before reaching the summit will put you in the hurt locker for a long time.
This is the best summit at Rushmore, and one of the best perches in the Needles. A double rope rap leads to the start of the route.
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