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S Dakota
> Needles Of Rush…
> Mt Rushmore Nat…
> Magna Carta
> Marker
> Middle Marker Area
Star Dancer
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.4 from 164
votes
Routes in Middle Marker Area
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[Redacted] S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Big Dripper T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Borealis Strut S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Broken Promises T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Crystal Shard S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Deja' Vu Prophecy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Don't Stahl S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Equinox S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Help s On the Way S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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IO S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Is That Uranus S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Jamais Vu T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jupiter Fly By S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Kuiper Cruise T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Little Dripper T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lux Prima T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Make Believe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Micro-Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mintaka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Moonstone S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Orions Belt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Pluto's Playground S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Raisins in the Sun T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Roadside Plum T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Rum and Coke S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Saturn Boogie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Skywalker S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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SLAMAT S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Solo System S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Spacedust S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Star Dancer S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thunder Road S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Weird Dripper S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Weird Water T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 105 ft (32 m) |
| FA: | Mike Engle, Vernon Phinney, Howard Doyle -1985 Ground Up |
| Page Views: | 10,228 total · 36/month |
| Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on Sep 30, 2001 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
Follow the directions under the Marker area. Star Dancer is found about 2/3 the way up the drainage / gully, on the right (of course). There is a large (20-30') boulder lying against the rock, Star Dancer starts just to the right of this.
As this is a popular route, you can scope the route by just looking at the polished / rubbed off holds all the way up the rock fin. The first bolt is a bit off the ground; one may clip it off the boulder if desired. After that, continue up the steep face choosing the biggest & best crystals you can find. If I remember correctly, there might be a bit of a friction move here & there, but for the most part there are nice, positive holds all the way. I don't recall the exact bolt count, but there are lots of them & the climb is a full 100'.
Descent is by rappelling the face you just climbed. By angling to the climber's left a 60m rope should just touch down. If you've got a 50m trail a second rope.
For additional fun, the climb Jupiter Fly By may be TR'd by rapping to climber's right to the JFB anchors. In a pinch this would be an alternate descent if you're stuck at the summit with a 50m rope...
As this is a popular route, you can scope the route by just looking at the polished / rubbed off holds all the way up the rock fin. The first bolt is a bit off the ground; one may clip it off the boulder if desired. After that, continue up the steep face choosing the biggest & best crystals you can find. If I remember correctly, there might be a bit of a friction move here & there, but for the most part there are nice, positive holds all the way. I don't recall the exact bolt count, but there are lots of them & the climb is a full 100'.
Descent is by rappelling the face you just climbed. By angling to the climber's left a 60m rope should just touch down. If you've got a 50m trail a second rope.
For additional fun, the climb Jupiter Fly By may be TR'd by rapping to climber's right to the JFB anchors. In a pinch this would be an alternate descent if you're stuck at the summit with a 50m rope...
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