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All Locations > New York > Gunks > Trapps > a1. The Uberfal… > No Picnic (5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a)
standing on nice ledge protecting the crux - block to the left of my feet is loose avoid using protection on it - i find it solid enough to walk over but nothing else.
ID 200295395 · · Copyright Violation?
"bomber" protection for ceiling .4 BD (grey) goes in easily, would hold - not the greatest. then gain some elevation and throw in a #1 BD (red) directly under the ceiling in the wide piton looking scar. This keeps your gear out of your path
perfect crux pro: BD#0.75 (green) low, BD#0.2 (yellow) micro cam in the pin scar, and a BD#0.1 (red)/nut in the roof's outer face.
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Alexander Gorshoff
Dec 21, 2024
“standing on nice ledge protecting the crux - block to the left of my feet is loose avoid using protection on it - i find it solid enough to walk over but nothing else.”  

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bomber crux pro: #0.75 green BD low, #3 yellow dragonfly (#0.2 BD) in the lower piton scar, #2 red dragonfly (#0.1 BD...or a nut) in the low outside crack of the roof.
No Picnic
"bomber" protection for ceiling .4 BD (grey) goes in easily, would hold - not the greatest. then gain some elevation and throw in a #1 BD (red) directly under the ceiling in the wide piton looking scar. This keeps your gear out of your path
standing on nice ledge protecting the crux - block to the left of my feet is loose avoid using protection on it - i find it solid enough to walk over but nothing else.
perfect crux pro: BD#0.75 (green) low, BD#0.2 (yellow) micro cam in the pin scar, and a BD#0.1 (red)/nut in the roof's outer face.
the better line to take imho. traverse around the outside of the block, then go up. more fun and less drag, less awkward. just don't yard OUT on the block on your traverse...
At the belay ledge after No Picnic.
My little guy trying hard and cleaning the pitch at 5 years old.
This climb is kinda like a mini Madame G.
No Picnic
No Picnic
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