North Face - a route overlay.

All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > Indian Peaks > Lone Eagle Peak > N Face (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

North Face - a route overlay.

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"Chillin" in the wind on top of the North Face.

Summit!!!

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Jon Banks

Jul 31, 2024

“North Face - a route overlay.”

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Nearby Photos

This is an undoctored photo of Lone Eagle from Mirror Lake. The original slide looks just like this, except for one important change.

Money pitch - pitch 10.

Lone Eagle Peak with Stettner route shown.

Crack o' dawn start at Monarch Lake. I bumped into this fellow. Lucky there was a boulder to climb, or he would have tried to kill me. He made angry noises and stomped his hooves. I ran up to Crater Lake, but the rain forced me down. Still a nice run. 3 hours car to car.

A climber about half way up the crux pitch on Sep. 19, 2010. The (barely visible) belayer at the top of the pitch is above the left exit variation. The right exit seemed to be easier.

The descent route off Lone Eagle Peak.

Lone Eagle Peak from near Mirror Lake.

Getting ready for the money pitch.

The bottom of the crux pitch in late December.

The start of the route. I found it not all that obvious. It's the first big wet black streak. Only a few moves of 5th class.

Avalanched trees on what's left of the trail from Pawnee Pass to Crater Lake.

Looking down the 5.7 pitch.

Owen following the 5.8 crack variation to the summit - me belaying at the top. You can see the beautiful crack line below. A friend took this picture through some binoculars from our camp East of the base.

Topping out.

The North Face (Stettner) route in winter. The topo never made sense to me until I understood that several parts of the "line" are behind the buttress that comes out halfway up the north face.

Solo Flight descent route from summit of climb. This is very obvious and easy. There are two gully options to climb at the end of the ledges - we chose the red option, but the yellow one is probably better. We remained roped until the top of the gully, although it wasn't really necessary.

Starting up the huge ramp. Pitch 2-5 scramblefest.

Jon below the crux pitch.

Peter Roth straddling the Lone Eagle Peak summit. Only 11 miles back to the Trailhead.

Start of pitch 10.

Me on the chimney pitch of Lone Eagle.<br>
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Photo by Tim Stich.

Emahgerd, 11 years later and it's still good. Seriously, this is the best 5.7 pitch on the planet.

This is about 15 feet up the start of the twin 5.7 cracks of the crux pitch. Notice how deep the cleft containing the cracks appears to the belayer.<br>
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Photo taken by Tracy Roach.

From the west side of Shoshone Peak: The North Face route diagonals left across the tree-covered bench into the shadowy cleft splitting the face.

Scott and old soda on the top of pitch 6.

Starting the descent. The summit is truly classic. Not too sure about the climbing though.

Lone Eagle Peak from Pawnee Pass Trail approach. The complete route can be seen from this point.

This is the corner that we followed to the summit - "pitch 11". Not an obvious line, but trending along the left-slanting seams will get you to the summit block along easy and protectable terrain.

"Chillin" in the wind on top of the North Face.

North Face - a route overlay.

Summit!!!

The North Face crux pitch.

Looking down from the top of pitch 4. Pitches 2 through 4 only have a few moves of actual climbing and are primarily hiking.

On the descent path. It took us much longer than the actual climb.

Arrows show right of 2 cracks. You should veer right towards the top. Do not continue straight up towards red arrow and circle!

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