P1 about 30-35m of climbing the right line leads to bolted station. Take a hard left from bolts on right to gain la Pomme again otherwise saying right you'll be in a world of hurt on La ruee. You won't be able to reach p2 bolts from these bolts

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > Quebec > Quebec Ice, Mix… > 03. Charlevoix > Hautes-gorges d… > 08 Mont de l'Eq… > La Pomme d'or (WI5+)

P1 about 30-35m of climbing the right line leads to bolted station. Take a hard left from bolts on right to gain la Pomme again otherwise saying right you'll be in a world of hurt on La ruee. You won't be able to reach p2 bolts from these bolts

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P3 WI4, there are two belay caves the first you can easily see on the right. It's bigger than the second that's bolted but I would skip this and head for the bolts. First belay cave is about 30-35m from the p2 bolts

Ray on the X/R rates mixed traverse from p1 bolt station. Need to make hard left from the bolts or take left tending line on p1 at the start.

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Ray Lovpal

Mar 6, 2024

“P1 about 30-35m of climbing the right line leads to bolted station. Take a hard left from bolts on right to gain la Pomme again otherwise saying right you'll be in a world of hurt on La ruee. You won't be able to reach p2 bolts from these bolts”

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Nearby Photos

The line we took on March 11, 2019

Earl Alderson leading as the climb get serious - March 1999

View from camp/river. You can see the very distinct separate lines you can take on the upper sections. Each line has a varying level of difficulty. Anywhere from 4+ to 5+

Total view on approach, La Pomme is the line on the right

Stas Beskin on La Pomme d'Or, January 2023, with John Mun and Sergey Tzibel. Picture from Wild Ice

The last 2 pitches of the line. Stas Beskin leading the last pitch. John Mun and Sergey Tzibel belaying from an ice anchor. Picture from Wild Ice

Approx location of bolted belays

Where the harder climbing begins about 1/3 the way up the route.

Malbaie River below

Earl Alderson with 'Pepe' on the ride in - March 1999

Last Pitch, solo

View of left line p1&p2 WI3 from the right line p1 bolts. 70m won't get you to the next bolts

Start of the approach to La Pomme, La loutre and La ruee. Get here as early as you can. Like literally race if you have to. 40 minutes to this sign if hustling from the ranger station. Then 40 min uphill to base.

We climbed La Pomme March 2024 and had to climb around lots of snice. The L side was seriously sketchy with the only climbable ice in the middle of the flow. Easiest way was to tunnel behind all the ice and then traverse to the centre from the R side.

We climbed La Pomme in March and ran into a lot of sketchy snice. To get back to better ice on the center of the main pillar, I tunneled behind the ice and traversed onto the face from the R side. This was the safest way and made for a fun bonus pitch.

JC following the top pitch. 03/04/2024

Myself leading P3 in funky condition. 03/04/2024

P3 WI4, there are two belay caves the first you can easily see on the right. It's bigger than the second that's bolted but I would skip this and head for the bolts. First belay cave is about 30-35m from the p2 bolts

P1 about 30-35m of climbing the right line leads to bolted station. Take a hard left from bolts on right to gain la Pomme again otherwise saying right you'll be in a world of hurt on La ruee. You won't be able to reach p2 bolts from these bolts

Ray on the X/R rates mixed traverse from p1 bolt station. Need to make hard left from the bolts or take left tending line on p1 at the start.

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