Sitting on upper slabs simul climbing

All Locations > Idaho > N Idaho > Selkirk Crest > Lion Creek Drai… > S Dome (Flank o… > Lion King (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)

Sitting on upper slabs simul climbing

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Very thin finger crack gets you up the seam on pitch 10

Matthew soloing the last bit of the beginning slab, pitches 1-5.

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Titus Humphreys

Aug 18, 2023

“Sitting on upper slabs simul climbing”

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Chase, Eddy and Amy surveying the route at the base of pitch 1.

White Granite slab pitch 13-14.

Absolute specimen of a bolt on P3. i imagine this was caused by the low angle nature of this part of the climb resulting in massive weight of snow pushing down on it during winter. kinda gnarly! an exception amongst mostly excellent bolts.

Chase crossing the creek. The approach is short (30min or less), and well marked w/cairns.

Matthew soloing near bottom of pitch 3.

Chase leading pitch 6. He linked 6 & 7 with a 60m rope (as we did numerous other pitches above). Recommend skipping or back cleaning draws and using some alpine draws to avoid rope drag.

Matthew leading pitch 10, sun in his eyes!

Chase at a belay station on the slab of the finishing pitches. Pitch 14-ish.

Amy, psyched to be rappelling! Chase and I walked off after landing at the top of pitch 5 (3 hours total for the descent). Amy and Eddy did not have approach shoes with them, so continued rappelling and took 3.5 hours to get back to the base of the climb.

Matthew & Amy preparing for the rappel. The dead tree marks the top of the climb.

fairly rough image of the rock structure with approximate route (to my knowledge) drawn over in red. green line denotes the belay move from the big tree ledge atop P5 to the beginning of P6.

Very thin finger crack gets you up the seam on pitch 10

Sitting on upper slabs simul climbing

Matthew soloing the last bit of the beginning slab, pitches 1-5.

Jam crack on pitch 12

Beginning the long rappelling. Allow several hours to get down

Troy starting traverse on Pitch 6. This is where real climbing begins

Pete moving through the crux of pitch 10

Start of pitch 7.

Finishing up the route on the solar eclipse.

Scenery from top of the route

You can walk down this gully by doing a single rap off a tree near the top of p14, if you aren't excited about rapping.

Pete leading pitch 6, the first significant "face pitch" after 5 moderate slab pitches.

Bob Ordner belaying Pete on pitch 6 on the generous belay ledge above pitch 5.

Pete leading the "Jungle Pitch"

Just "hanging out" at the belay ledge for pitch 10 with Priest Lake in the distance

Chase following on pitch 8. Eddy on the belay ledge below.

About halfway up the slabs

Flakes on crux pitch 10, very thin smear traverse between flakes

Approach trail drawn on satellite imagery

Incredible views of Lion's Head valley and Priest Lake from the top of pitch 9

Pete leading pitch 10, Bob belaying.

The last rap off the slabs on doubled ropes. Good to be down!

Looking up from the start of the route.

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Titus Humphreys

Coeurd'Alene, ID

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