Alternate P1 to P0 rap anchor as seen from the P1 anchor. The rap anchors are difficult to see from the P2 anchors, so be sure to spot them on the way up

All Locations > Washington > Central-W Casca… > Snoqualmie Pass… > Tooth > Summer-Fall (rock) > Tooth Fairy (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V2+ 5+)

Alternate P1 to P0 rap anchor as seen from the P1 anchor. The rap anchors are difficult to see from the P2 anchors, so be sure to spot them on the way up

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The singular bolt on p7 is easy to miss... we also slung a horn at the summit to protect.

Beta for the approach.

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Nick Arbogast

Nov 8, 2022

“Alternate P1 to P0 rap anchor as seen from the P1 anchor. The rap anchors are difficult to see from the P2 anchors, so be sure to spot them on the way up”

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Nearby Photos

The South Face of the Tooth

Alternative rap route from the top of pitch 2. Look down and left for the only tree, then rap directly down the fall line to two bolts about 20ft low of the tree, This also happens to be a magnificent "Mission Impossible" style rap on a clean wall.

It took us forever to find the first bolt. Here is a photo of the first pitch with bolt locations marked.

Put slings around horns for an anchor to top out on the seventh (scrambling) pitch. Didn't rappel off these, just downclimbed to the anchors on top of the 6th pitch then rappelled. There are many anchor possibilities around here for a long cordelette!

Climber nearing the end of P5

The route starts all the way on the left side of this photo

Views from the base of the climb

Topping out on the excellent crux fifth pitch!

Tooth Fairies and a Cavity Creep climb the Tooth Fairy

Starting the second pitch, looking up. Very cubic!

At the Belay station at the end of pitch 1.

The Tooth

View from the start of P5.

Looking down from the belay on the fifth pitch.

Rap station below the "Tat Tree", this is one 30m rap to the bottom (rope stretcher! Tie knots!), and gets you off the primary route for the bottom two pitches. See other photo for location visual.

Looking up from the base of pitch 1. Follow a series of bolts on the left face.

Anchor/rap station at the top of pitch 3. Hmmmm. Splendid route!!

An overhead shot of a narrow section on the snow finger going up Pineapple Pass on 6/6/24. Drop offs on both sides (maybe 50ft?). Photo taken while standing on a small ledge on the rock wall to climbers left, which is why the angle looks sort of weird.

The singular bolt on p7 is easy to miss... we also slung a horn at the summit to protect.

Alternate P1 to P0 rap anchor as seen from the P1 anchor. The rap anchors are difficult to see from the P2 anchors, so be sure to spot them on the way up

Beta for the approach.

Will following pitch #5, July 8, 2022.

The first bolt is towards the top of this slab.

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