Two followers standing on the nose, where the first rap station is

All Locations > Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (s) Monkey Face > Pioneer Route (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0)

Two followers standing on the nose, where the first rap station is

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Monkeys on the Monkey

On the bolt ladder. Photo taken by Andrew Eck.

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4.3 from 6 votes

Jack Guan

Oct 23, 2022

“Two followers standing on the nose, where the first rap station is”

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Stephanie Balbin on the bolt ladder. This photo also shows why it is important to get an early start.

Monkeys on the Monkey

Two followers standing on the nose, where the first rap station is

On the bolt ladder. Photo taken by Andrew Eck.

Pioneer Route

View from the Monkey's Mouth

Joey on the final moves of the aid pitch, close to the Mouth

Hanging in space: the long rapp down from the Nose.

Awesome rap off the top!

The monkey face tower

On top of the exposed 5.7 pitch, belaying Jeff who's about to step out onto Panic Point

Scott Bennett speed solos the Pioneer Route

The rap route from the summit to the base of the Pioneer Route. One short rap from the top chains, reset on the nose boulder chains, and then enjoy the ride. We used a 70m rope and a 70m tag line. Two 60m would work also.

I expect the bolt ladder is much more fun with aiders rather than yarding on draws

Tossing the rope from the Rap. Two 60M will get you back down from here.<br>
Don't toss the ropes from this spot when it's windy.

Max in the Monkey's Mouth belaying a leader

Setting up first short rappel

Jason Killian jugging the bolt ladder

Molly and River following the bolt ladder pitch

Max on the aid section, photo taken by the non-climbing family member

The slab on P2 is great fun!

Had the top to ourselves

View of the Pioneer Route on Monkey Face from adjacent cliff

The amazing free hanging rappel

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