The Morgul Vale. First 4 pitches visible. Starting bolt marked. 1st, 2nd, 4th sets of anchors marked. Read my comment for detailed explanation

All Locations > Oregon > Willamette Valley > Wolf Rock > Southeast Face > Morgul Vale (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13)

The Morgul Vale. First 4 pitches visible. Starting bolt marked. 1st, 2nd, 4th sets of anchors marked. Read my comment for detailed explanation

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A little way up off the deck...

This is looking toward the summit ridge from just past the top of P10b anchors.
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EDIT: Follow the ridge on the skyline and there are two bolts to clip on the way on the steepest parts.

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Fletch PDX

Sep 29, 2022

“The Morgul Vale. First 4 pitches visible. Starting bolt marked. 1st, 2nd, 4th sets of anchors marked. Read my comment for detailed explanation”

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Nearby Photos

The first sketchy drop off to the left on the walk off.

Full route overview of Wolf Rock's SE Face, showing Morgul Vale (5.9+, PG-13, white line on left) and Barad Dur (5.11a/b, yellow line on right). Base photo courtesy of Tyler Adams.

Once you see the Great Arch, you are basically at a wide pullout on the left. The climbers trail is on the Easternmost edge of the wide pullout. Climber is at the trail entrance. Read my comment for detailed explanation

Map of the wall for new Morgul Vale variation, along with close by routes.

Morgal Vale Topo, drawing by Tyler Adams

6th pitch anchors seen from the new route 7b pitch anchors. Traditional route goes around the right corner and up a chossy slope. Eye of Sauron watching over us through the wildfire smoke

Picture of new route pitches from 7b anchors. From here pitches 8, 9 and 10 are straightforward to find and well bolted

Belay station at the top of pitch 3

2 bolts in on p2 of Morgal Vale……ocean of rock

A little way up off the deck...

The Morgul Vale. First 4 pitches visible. Starting bolt marked. 1st, 2nd, 4th sets of anchors marked. Read my comment for detailed explanation

This is looking toward the summit ridge from just past the top of P10b anchors.
<br>

<br>
EDIT: Follow the ridge on the skyline and there are two bolts to clip on the way on the steepest parts.

The endpoints of the evil fake descent gullies, seen during the walkoff: Cliffs. Allegedly, there may be some ancient 1/4" bolts up there.

Looking at the top of the descent gully from just downhill of the descent topo GPS. Also a pretty photo of a beautiful day.

Leading pitch 8 Sam found two nut placements left and then traversed on to more level ground and slung a solid tree to belay off of.

Going around the corner of the big roof on P6 of "The Morgul Vale".

standing on the summit after the last scramble to the top

Pitch 5

Amazing view from 2nd to last belay ledge

The view from the top of pitch 4

continue one gully over to the right from this point before dropping down.

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