For pitch 5, the standard route (5.6-5.7ish) goes to the right around the flake feature.

All Locations > Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Pear > Magical Chrome Plated… (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

For pitch 5, the standard route (5.6-5.7ish) goes to the right around the flake feature.

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The dihedral of pitch 2.

I'm not sure what all of the lines are.<br>
<br>
Looking at a guidebook topo, the original "natural line" is about 10 feet right of B in a corner system and is 5.7. (Option 1 in description?)<br>
<br>
I believe B to D is option 2, and is shown as 5.9 in the guidebook topo. (D, the ass crack, felt significantly harder to me.)<br>
<br>
Exit to C is shown as 5.6. I assume to get to C one can go up A or further left (options 3 and 4?).

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Steph Abegg

May 18, 2022

“For pitch 5, the standard route (5.6-5.7ish) goes to the right around the flake feature.”

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Nearby Photos

The rap north off the summit and into the trench.

Mark belaying at the top of the 4th pitch and laughing as hard as I am at the giant stone butt on top of the route.

Pitch 3.

The dihedral of pitch 2.

For pitch 5, the standard route (5.6-5.7ish) goes to the right around the flake feature.

I'm not sure what all of the lines are.<br>
<br>
Looking at a guidebook topo, the original "natural line" is about 10 feet right of B in a corner system and is 5.7. (Option 1 in description?)<br>
<br>
I believe B to D is option 2, and is shown as 5.9 in the guidebook topo. (D, the ass crack, felt significantly harder to me.)<br>
<br>
Exit to C is shown as 5.6. I assume to get to C one can go up A or further left (options 3 and 4?).

Looking down the pitch 4 V-slot.

Looking up P1.

Granite dreaming w/ Carly Richards.

I wonder why they named this route after an enema syringe of all things..?

Myke turning the corner of P5.

The right dihedral variation of P1.

The right dihedral option. Smooth.

Traverse on the first pitch. This ended up being the second pitch for us because we started below the buttress.

Second pitch topout.

Crossing the P1 traverse with my daughter Ayana (guided by Ryan Pedersen of the Colorado Mountain School).

2nd pitch of Magical Chrome Plated... P1 and P2 can be combined with a 60m rope.

The 5.9 variation on the last pitch. Instead of going up and right from the belay, climb straight up the awkward flake. The climbing eases at the top of the flake.

Looking down P2.

Pitch 3 (or pitch 2 if you linked the first two).

Looking down pitch 1 (or P2 if you break them up).

The grassy beginning of the first pitch

Nikki making tough 5.11 moves up to the belay atop Pitch 2. Stepping on the grass ledge makes it the normal 5.6.

The Land family on top of pitch 4.

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