Every single route on the east face of Long's Peak. A full caption is in comments.

All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > N Face/Ridge > Cable Route (5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c)

Every single route on the east face of Long's Peak. A full caption is in comments.

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Cable Route as seen from Storm Peak on 3-8-08. Two parties are visible, one just reaching the top of technical pitch, the other descending from above.

Long's north face, 3-2-11<br>
Climber: Matt Bruton.<br>
Photo: Dancesatmoonrise.

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4.8 from 73 votes

Alex Buisse

Jun 26, 2021

“Every single route on the east face of Long's Peak. A full caption is in comments.”

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Cable Route as seen from Storm Peak on 3-8-08. Two parties are visible, one just reaching the top of technical pitch, the other descending from above.

Every single route on the east face of Long's Peak. A full caption is in comments.

Long's north face, 3-2-11<br>
Climber: Matt Bruton.<br>
Photo: Dancesatmoonrise.

The Cable Route follows the red line to the summit.

Taken March 23, 2002.

4-13-03<br>
A picture of an April climb just to show the variety of conditions posible. Almost entirely snow on this day.

Water on the rock taken July 2, 2012.

looking down the climb on the Cable route

Halfway up the iconic first pitch.

Charles and Bob 75ft up the techinical section of the Cables route. Notice the use of available natural features. Picture taken 7-3-04.

Top of the easy, technical stuff.

Snowfield above the Cable early in the season.

Me alone above crux of Cable. Very little and unstable snow just for trouble. Was like M5/6 R. Summit was part of ABC 14'ers project in 12 months. Jan. 30, 2010.

The clouds came in covering the East Face completely by the time we were back down to Chasm Junction. You can see the bottom of the Diamond in this shot.

looking up the climb, the crux is visible at the top of the photo

Black - unroped ascent, blue - roped ascent, red - descent, yellow - raps.

Topmost "fixed" anchor on the Cable Route. A couple of old bolts girthed with some dyneema and a quicklink. A 60m rap from here WILL NOT get you to the first eyebolt. We rapped from here, 30-40ft down to another eyebolt, and then rapped again to the first eyebolt on a 60m rope.

Conditions on the Cable Route as of 6/25/2013. On ascent, snowpack was solid, very bootable. Tech section had some ice (lots of verglas and some larger stuff). On descent (~1pm), snow was super soft, ice underneath in some spots made for very slippery conditions, crampons super helpful. Tech section was gushing stream on descent.

Long's North Face (Cable Route) - January 4, 2013.

The second half of the 5.4 dihedral section in midsummer conditions.

Old iron loops - cables were removed. Many options to set up a rappel, we did only one.

Does anybody have any info on this chimney? I saw at least three rusty old pitons on my way up. It felt about 5.5-5.6. Thanks!

One rappel on the descent.

Me rapping from the 1st rap station.

The descent in early June 03 above the raps. Crampons are still highly recommended at this time of year for descents as well.

The Cable Route (a.k.a. North Face of Long's) from boulder field on Aug 1st, 2007.

Above the Cable Route, winter 2013.

Rapping Down to Chasm View (c) Jesse Ryan

A friend, Amy Myers, and I fourth-classing up the Cable Route, just below the crux (from what I've learned here on MP) late July or early August 2000. We were college, cross-country running buddies on summer vacation and were told this was an alternative to the Keyhole Route. We were just in running shoes and had a blast.

Climbing up the lower portion of the route just above Chasm view.

Minimal snow on Cables as of Feb. 1, 2019. Easy climbing with good pro.

2nd pitch up the Cable Route on July 3, 2012. Practically no snow but this spot. Lots of water on the rock, though.

Long's Peak, as seen from the Twin Sisters, w/the route roughly sketched.

Look at the slope angle on the descent above the Cable Route.

Ernie Port just above the real climbing on Cable route.

Sept 18, 2004

Traversing to The Cables Route- 1998

Some mixed climbing sections on a mostly snow covered route, May 28th.

Snow covered route, early Spring.

Going up a snow covered Cable Route in Spring May 28th.

Approaching the route in early spring, snow covered, May 28th, 2021.

Will Drexler on the summit. He was a little tired. 11/25/05.

Shane Murphy resting after the first pitch.

Ben and Shane on the summit of Longs.

Shane Murphy in front of the Cable Route--the dihedral just right of the edge of the Diamond.

A route overlay of North Face / Cables Route.

The first half of 5.4 dihedral section in midsummer conditions.

Pitch 1.

Some snow and ice on the route during shoulder season in October.

Also Appears In

The Diamond

Casual Route (5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a)

Dunn Westbay (5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3)

Forrest Finish (5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b)

Pervertical Sanctuary (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c)

Black Dagger (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c)

Curving Vine (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c)

Yellow Wall (5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R)

The Obelisk (5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c)

D7 (5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a)

Bright Star (5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R)

Ariana (5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a)

Hearts and Arrows (5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b)

Eroica (5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13)

Dunn-Westbay Indirect (5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c)

The Honeymoon is Over (5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a)

King of Swords (5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a)

D1 (5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a)

D7 Variation (5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c)

King of Swords (5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a)

Full House (5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b)

The Free Grand Traverse (5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a)

Full Dunn-Westbay (aka Dunn-Westbay Direct or The Direct Dunn-Westbay) (5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a)

Gambler's Fallacy (5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c)

Beethoven's Honeymoon (5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c)

Directissima (5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b)

Red Wall (5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b)

Sharp on Both Ends (5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a)

Babies R' Us (5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13)

Invisible Wall (5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a)

Chasm View Cutoff (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13)

North Chimney (5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c)

Alexander's Chimney (5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a)

Crack of Delight (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

Stettner's Ledges (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)

Fields' Chimney (summer) (5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)

Malander's Passage (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R)

Kor's Door (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)

Grey Pillar (5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R)

Directagonal (5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R)

Diagonal Super Direct (5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13)

Endless Summer (5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R)

Zumie's Thumb (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)

Teeter Totter Pillar (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Mod. Snow)

Cable Route (5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c)

Keyhole Ridge (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b)

Smear of Fear (WI5 M6 R)

Alexander's Chimney (WI4 M4)

Lamb's Slide (AI1 Easy Snow)

Crazy Train (WI5)

The Notch Couloir (5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2-3 M3 Mod. Snow)

Kiener's Route (5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2 Easy Snow)

North Face / Cables Route (5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3)

Field's Chimney (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI5 M6+)

Conditional Love (WI5-6 M5 R)

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