Taken from El Cap Meadow on 5/9/21

All Locations > California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley S Side > P. Cathedral Area > 6. Middle Cathe… > E Buttress (5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0)

Taken from El Cap Meadow on 5/9/21

ID 120692304 ·

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Stainless steel bends but is hard to break! Replaced bent second bolt on "50 Crowded variation" on right; unbent replacement hanger on left.
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The bent bolt / hanger was probably hit by a rock.

Pitch 5. This is the crux pitch of the route, face climbing on tiny edges. It is tightly bolted. Done free, it is 10c. As a bolt ladder, it is 5.9 A0. When the FA'ers put up this nine-bolt ladder in 1954 it was the longest bolt ladder in the country.

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4.8 from 9 votes

Charles De Mar

May 11, 2021

“Taken from El Cap Meadow on 5/9/21”

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Nearby Photos

Quinn Miller on the 10th pitch.

Sept 2017 rockfall on El Cap from Middle Cathedral

Great views.

Stainless steel bends but is hard to break! Replaced bent second bolt on "50 Crowded variation" on right; unbent replacement hanger on left.
<br>
The bent bolt / hanger was probably hit by a rock.

Taken from El Cap Meadow on 5/9/21

Pitch 5. This is the crux pitch of the route, face climbing on tiny edges. It is tightly bolted. Done free, it is 10c. As a bolt ladder, it is 5.9 A0. When the FA'ers put up this nine-bolt ladder in 1954 it was the longest bolt ladder in the country.

A 17 year old TrundleBum following one of the upper "flared groove" pitches, Middle Cathedral, East Buttress.<br>
(what is this? action, personal or I guess it could even be 'Historic')

Middle Cathedral approach trails - East Buttress, Kor-Beck, Central Pillar of Frenzy
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original photo from xRez.com

Start of the East Face rappel route.

Taken from El Cap Meadow on 5/9/21

Route Overlay East Buttress of Middle Cathedral.

The first rappel on a very long descent

In the Original Route's chimney. People on the now standard variation could hear us moaning and yelling obscenities for the hour or so it took us to get up this thing

Lead climber from a party ahead of us free climbing the 10c section.

Topo of the new rap route on EBMC

David belaying with the sun rising in the background.

Brendan about to lead ladder pitch

The view from the belay ledge below the bolt ladder/crux pitch.

Eric-3rd 5.9 awk pitch from the 'Critical Path' alternate start. The whole thing was covered in moss but was pre-tyy sweet. the 10c thin pitch was filled with moss. but 1st pitch was sick consult the sloan guide and look at the east buttress topo for info

Gokul, crux pitch

View from the top, from the first few steps on the catwalk before going up the 4th class gully.

Randy with awesome exposure on one of the final pitches

Gary Reno near the summit!

What the experience actually looks like: three parties sharing a belay baking in the sun.

east butt mid cathedral

Looking down pitch 2 if I remember correctly.

Looking up from the big ledge at the start of the route.

One of the last pitches

that's me on the east buttress circa 1985

Jesse

Always great exposure throughout the climb with great views

The start of the descent gully.

Pitch 10. Steep groove.

Descent conditions as of April 08

Gokul, tired but in the home stretch

Looking down at the 5th pitch variation going straight up over the roof. I didn't go left to the bolt ladder. Ooops. Scary.

Descent gully. A few rappels are involved.

P10 (our P7). Head left shortly after you reach the small tree above to get to new rap route.

Bolt ladder

Looking down pitch 1.

Just before the crux section

Gokul, p4

Having Fun on East Buttress

Pitch 7: Fun 5.7 corner climbing.

Pitch 6 is a face traverse into the crack systems. Protection is sparse but there are a couple of pitons and medium cam (green, yellow, and red aliens) placements.

Drew on the route.

Chuck on one of the rappels on the descent.

The top of the route.

east buttress of middle cathedral

San Luis Obispo based climber pulling the crux, 50 Crowded variation 5/7/2016

View of El Cap from the base of the first pitch. Worth the stroll up even if you're not doing the climb.

Pitch 4: More 5.7 fun.

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