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All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Ypsilon Mountain > Blitzen Ridge (5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c)

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From First Ace

A small glimpse at some of the exposure and ledges.
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Photo by Ally B.

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4.7 from 6 votes

Steph Abegg

Aug 4, 2020

“A Google Earth overlay.”

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Nearby Photos

A photo overlay of the Four Aces as seen on approach via the Lower Ridge.

Wade Morris near the top of the 3rd Ace, 2017 Winter.

Wade Morris on top of the 2nd (?) Ace in Winter.

Wow! Exposure at its best. 6/06.

The full cirque (with most of the traverse we did).

Photo by Avery N.<br>
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The Aces as seen from the Y couloir.<br>
July 3rd, 2004.

Beautiful alpine forget-me-nots found below Donner Ridge. 6/06

Wade Morris and I shouldered 40lb+ training packs and jumped on the Blitzen Ridge in the winter of 2017. It proved to be a very productive, and full-on AK training mission.

The clouds break over the Aces.

A photo overlay of the Four Aces as from below near Spectacle Lakes.

Approaching the First Ace.

Cruising the ridge just after the 4th Ace...SO GOOD!

Gorgeous columbine, 6/06.

From First Ace

A Google Earth overlay.

A small glimpse at some of the exposure and ledges.
<br>

<br>
Photo by Ally B.

Just below the summit, on the descent. Blitzen on the left and Donner on the right.

Blitzen Ridge in the background.

Slabby dihedral on the left side of the 3rd Ace. I thought this was the best bit of climbing on the route.

An unknown climber downclimbing the 3rd Ace. The 4th Ace is to the left of the photo. Shot from Spectacle Lake, 7/30/22.

Lower Spectacle Lake.

The start of the route, just before dropping down to traverse across the First Ace.

Julia traversing to the right around the 4th Ace. The Third Ace is to the left of the photo. The rappel from the third ace goes straight down from the summit while the downclimb sticks to the ridge.

Halfway up the last headwall with the prominent 4th Ace behind us.

Fast and light afternoon ascent of Blitzen ridge with Stefan Griebel. Downclimbing one of the aces before continuing up.

Meaty part of the Blitzen Ridge.

Good view of the Aces.

Easy going so far on Donner.

Bill Duncan and the Blitzen Ridge.

En route to the summit. Spectacular! 6/06.

Looking across to Blitzen Ridge as we start the descent down Donner Ridge.

Looking down Blitzen Ridge.

Unnecessary anchors that have recently been added to the ridge. This are intended to "rappel" the easily protected 5.2 downclimb/traverse. My opinion is that these anchors should be removed.

Another view of Spectacle Lakes and Donner Ridge.

Blitzen track with Chapin TH descent.

Ally B. at the top of the gully that gets you on Blizen Ridge. Beautiful view, beautiful woman and all with Long's Peak in the background

The Four Aces and final headwall - the meat of the route

Donner Ridge (descent we used).

Kepley on the Blitzen's airy final approach.

Spectacle Lakes from the approach gully.

'Aces high' and the final approach ridge of the Blitzen.

Our route across the 1st Ace. Rob is at the crux here.

Approach gully from lower Spectacle Lake.

Beta shot for posing down hard on the summit of Ypsilon, Sam Flournoy and Ryne Greene.

Progress so far.

Tony M. on Ace 1.

Donner Ridge (routefinding was fairly easy; we made a couple of mid-class 5 downclimbing moves).

The Aces, July '04.

Sunrise view of the upper cirque, Blitzen on the right, Donner on the left, and the late season Y Couloir central.

Keen traversing around the Fourth Ace.

First Ace.

Weakness traverses right across the face of the fourth ace.

Exposure.

A good 5.5-5.6 option on the 4th ace. Soloists, watch for those loose flakes.

Blitzen meeting the "Y". July '04.

Ryne Greene about done with the thousand feet of 4th class. Photo taken just before he couldn't take the exposure and asked to be short roped by partner, Sam Flournoy.

The downclimb on the back of the third Ace.

And the ridge goes on.

Ypsilon from Chipmunk Lake.

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