Start of Direct South Buttress (Pitches 3&4, directly above Upper Ramp) NOTE: Error in topo. See comments.

All Locations > Wyoming > Grand Teton NP > Mt Moran > Direct S Buttress (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1)

Start of Direct South Buttress (Pitches 3&4, directly above Upper Ramp) NOTE: Error in topo. See comments.

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Pitch 4. Long 4th class pitch on obvious ledge feature.

Pierce on the endless 5th class of South buttress

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Steph Abegg

Jul 20, 2019

“Start of Direct South Buttress (Pitches 3&4, directly above Upper Ramp) NOTE: Error in topo. See comments.”

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Mike traversing over the void on the DSB.

Route Overlay Moran DSB + CMC (and traverse between).

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Ralph Baldwin on the pendulum pitch. 1982

Overlay of DSB + CMC

Pitch 3 fun 5.7 climbing. (This is first pitch of DSB, just off upper ledge after the first 2 approach pitches).

Bobby traversing the long ridge to the summit. The North Face of the Grand is visible behind.

Jed Porter moving through the pendulum pitch

the double pendulum/aid pitch near the top of the roped climbing on the DSB on Moran. Photo of Andrew Kulmatiski taken by Luke Zachmann.

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Bill Krause at the end of the Pendulum pitch in 1987.

Jed Porter after completing the pendulum pitch

Pitch 8 Chimney/crack.

Pitch 4. Long 4th class pitch on obvious ledge feature.

Start of Direct South Buttress (Pitches 3&4, directly above Upper Ramp) NOTE: Error in topo. See comments.

Pierce on the endless 5th class of South buttress

I took the route topo in the Ortenburger guide and added/corrected parts to it based on my experience climbing the route. This should make things more clear and up to date (e.g. many of the pins indicated in the earlier topo are now gone).

Looking back across the Pedulum Pitch & aid pitch

Another look at the double pendulum. Thin crack above is the aid section. Craig Bachman representing.

Pitch 5, the 5.8 corner option (alternative is to do a 4th class around to the left and up to top of corner).

Pitch 6. This terrain is sort of in-obvious. Follow the guidebook beta. Left then right.

Pointed flake on Pitch 9.

Pitch 9.

Pitch 10. The pendulum + aid pitch.

Pitch 10. The pendulum + aid pitch. C1 or 12-. Gear beta: The blue and black totems were my first 2 pieces.

Carter on P.6, belaying from the top of the loose 5.8 chimney

Pitch 7 (upper part) and Pitch 8 (above, chimney/crack just right of splitter in corner).

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Pitch 7.

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