I decided to chimney the double cracks. Might need to be taller to chimney. You can easily climb this via stemming moves. Note that the belay and cracks suck up 3/4" to 1.5" gear. I dropped a #4 into the crack above but you don't need anything over 3".

All Locations > Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > W Sedona > Dry Creek Rd Area > Bear Mtn Area > Ursa Minor Spire > Ursa Minor (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)

I decided to chimney the double cracks. Might need to be taller to chimney. You can easily climb this via stemming moves. Note that the belay and cracks suck up 3/4" to 1.5" gear. I dropped a #4 into the crack above but you don't need anything over 3".

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Chelsea just before the summit.

Zac coming up from the base. Note the immediate exposure once you step off the "TV sized" block into the crack. Easy "5.4-ish" climbing for the lower section.

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John Knight

Jul 7, 2019

“I decided to chimney the double cracks. Might need to be taller to chimney. You can easily climb this via stemming moves. Note that the belay and cracks suck up 3/4" to 1.5" gear. I dropped a #4 into the crack above but you don't need anything over 3".”

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Nearby Photos

North side of Ursa Minor. Work your way up the awesome double cracks.

Ursa Minor and its "Cub"?

Topo of East Side of Ursa Minor

Chelsea getting ready to step off the TV sized block into the crack.

A view from the 'saddle' of what I believe the climb is.

Ciara descending after climbing up the rappel route (5.10 dirty)

Pic from first big ledge. The 5.8/5.9 slab move and first bolt are right behind us.

Starting moves are a bit spicy. We built a ground anchor for sure. Photo by Bert Langmade.

South east side of Ursa Minor - possible route?

A bit messy at the belay.

Great belay perch. A bit busy with 2 ropes but worth it to get us all up to the summit of this spire.

India just finished leading to summit. Note rap chains by left shoulder.

Crazy happy to make it to the summit!

India leading up to the first big ledge.

You eyeballing me?" Killer "attack lizard" guarding the approach. I believe this is a Collared Lizard. He's a bit "flaky". Looks like he just finished molting/shedding.

India with the summit selfie.

India coming up to the summit via the double cracks. Note big ledges out high and right. You'll need these to make the "roof move" easier.

Zac joins me at the belay at the base of the double cracks.

Chelsea enjoying the easy traverse before you move into the double cracks.

India almost at first ledge. Great views even from the partway up the climb.

Fun rap off the chains. Only need a 60m rope.

Clipping the traverse bolt. Photo by Bert Langmade.

Chelsea enjoying the overhanging rap. And great views!

Panorama from the saddle

Summit pic.

Chelsea just before the summit.

I decided to chimney the double cracks. Might need to be taller to chimney. You can easily climb this via stemming moves. Note that the belay and cracks suck up 3/4" to 1.5" gear. I dropped a #4 into the crack above but you don't need anything over 3".

Zac coming up from the base. Note the immediate exposure once you step off the "TV sized" block into the crack. Easy "5.4-ish" climbing for the lower section.

Cruising the 5.4 crack after the scary block. Photo by Bert Langmade

Zac stemming like a boss. No chimney work required.

A view of Ursa Minor from the trail

Zac moving right at the mini "roof". Note sweet double cracks. Belay takes pro about 3/4" to 1" wide. I used 2 cams and a large nut to save more cams for climbing.

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