Bushy corner that leads to 5.7 groove option for Pitch 1.

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Sheriff's Badge > Angel's Crest (5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b)

Bushy corner that leads to 5.7 groove option for Pitch 1.

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Looking up Pitch 1 (10b option).

10a crack on Pitch 12.

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Steph Abegg

May 12, 2019

“Bushy corner that leads to 5.7 groove option for Pitch 1.”

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Nearby Photos

After the Acrophobes.

The splitter 5.10b offwidth variation to pitch 7. Isn't it beautiful? I'm a sucker for offwidths... Too bad the #5 I lugged up there wouldn't do anything for me.

Dan leading the 5.10b offwidth. He used a BD #6 for the first 1/3, then a VG 9 for the 2/3. Sort of ran it out until closer to the top where he could place a nut and a BD 0.5.<br>
I tried this on top-rope and felt like it was impossible. Master the heel-toe cam and you should be good.

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Pitch 1 Tree Option: 2014 and 2019. Several broken branches make this no longer the preferred start to the route.

Pitch 8, 5.9 crack.

The Whaleback at the top of Pitch 11.

A stitched together panoramic of the north walls of the Chief taken from the loop trail in the Smoke Bluffs just above the far right side of Ronin's Corner.<br>
<br>
Angel's Crest runs up the edge visible in the middle of the image, just left of the Sheriff's Badge.

Pitch 12.

Looking up from the base of Pitch 1, 5.7 groove option (this starts on a ledge above the bushy corner).

Flex starting up the Angel Crack (pitch 2) photo by Jeff Kennedy

Flex belaying on one of the aptly named Acrophobe Towers. photo by Jeff Kennedy

Pitch 8 offwidth variation (10a).

P2: The Angel Crack

Nearing the end of an awesome pitch

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Climbing up the last 5.10a pitch. The Acrophobe's Traverse can be seen in the top right.

The second to last pitch is stellar. I was blown out from leading the first five pitches of borderline linking into angels and gave this lead to my partner. That was a mistake.

Looking up at the headwall from below the Acrophobes

Conrad Gmoser atop the Acrophobes', at the belay

the tree start is a must do!

Pitch 11 variation (10a).

The totem along the forest scramble below the Acrophobes

One more pitch to go!

Top of the Angel's Crack pitch

Flex finishing off the last few moves of Angel's Crest. photo by Jeff Kennedy

Climbing up the fist crack on pitch 10, and loving it. Look at the view!

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The Acrophobes (Pitch 9) of Angel's Crest

The view down the finishing chimney. It goes on and on and on.

Sweet angle on that last 10c fingers pitch variation.

Quite the loose block at the base of p8 (after the forest walk)

Anna leading a pitch on the acrophobes

Pitch 5 (10a) topo

10c last pitch variation. Short and sweet.

The Acrophobes pitch

Slabby bolted face on Pitch 1 (10b option).

P12

The second half of Pitch 1 (10 option). We broke it up into 2 pitches. There is a bolted anchor halfway.

Looking up Pitch 1 (10b option).

Bushy corner that leads to 5.7 groove option for Pitch 1.

10a crack on Pitch 12.

Rap anchor to start of Pitch 10.

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