Looking at the west gully option. There are lots of tracks going down this way, but according to various comments we had read on mountainproject, it sounds as if the gully steepens and the descent becomes a bit heinous towards the end.

All Locations > Montana > Southwest Region > Paradise Valley > Cowen Massif > Montana Centennial Route (5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c)

Looking at the west gully option. There are lots of tracks going down this way, but according to various comments we had read on mountainproject, it sounds as if the gully steepens and the descent becomes a bit heinous towards the end.

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Pitch 3, from here the route goes up and right through the weakness in the roof

This is the original topo drawn from the first ascent. Note that we used Friends instead of Camalots and 60m double ropes.

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Steph Abegg

Sep 6, 2018

“Looking at the west gully option. There are lots of tracks going down this way, but according to various comments we had read on mountainproject, it sounds as if the gully steepens and the descent becomes a bit heinous towards the end.”

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Nearby Photos

Photo Route Overlay (version 2).

This route is good

Photo Route Overlay (version 1).

Centennial Route

Approaching the base of the buttress. The splitter crack system is the Hooven-Leo variation about 100 feet to the left of the standard route. The standard route is just around the right toe of this buttress just out of view.

Looking down at notch between Eenie and First Buttress. First rap station on slung horn on right side of photo.

Looking up finger crack on Pitch 9 of 10. Direct start is protectable 5.10 or do an airy unprotected 5.8 traverse into it.

Pitch 7.

Starting down the east gully option. Less direct, but safe and pleasant. One easy rappel over a cliff just before the lake.

Looking down midway up Pitch 3 of Hooven-Leo variation.

Ellie Thompson coming across on the exposed hand traverse. Pitch 6 of 9.

Scramble left along this grassy ledge to get to the rap station above the notch.

The Centennial Route in 9 pitches using a 70m rope.

Bad belaying. Good picture taking.

bottom of the crux pitch.

Hand crack on Pitch 5.

Crack just left of Prow on Pitch 7.

This is where we intersected the standard route after a rightward traverse along a large ledge at the top of Pitch 3 of Hooven-Leo variation. I think the dihedral on the right is the second half of Pitch 4 of the standard route.

Looking up Pitch 5.

top of the prow and top of pitch 7 of 9.

just below the crux.

bottom of the crux pitch. Fine stone...

The upper dihedral of pitch 4. I found the gear to be tricky and sparse up high. Brass offsets were useful.

Rap Station 2: 33m or so. With rope stretch, double 60s should get you down from Rap Station 1.

Ellie following the 2nd pitch.

Turning the corner around the Prow.

Pitch 8 of 9 slab traverse.

Death Gully descent

Bouldery move on Pitch 10 of 10 (final pitch).

View from campsite, the dihedral pitch and Prow are obvious.

What did we call that again? Oh yeah, the Death Gully.

This one's for you Jeffrey. circa 2011.

Rap Station 1: 35m to an intermediate rappel or 60m to notch. Tie knots if you are rapping with a single 70!

Pitch 3, from here the route goes up and right through the weakness in the roof

Looking at the west gully option. There are lots of tracks going down this way, but according to various comments we had read on mountainproject, it sounds as if the gully steepens and the descent becomes a bit heinous towards the end.

This is the original topo drawn from the first ascent. Note that we used Friends instead of Camalots and 60m double ropes.

Skirt left below rock walls until you come to the giant square-shaped slot (the "Garage Door"). Then cut right up the grassy/rocky slopes to the base of the route.

Halfway up the overhang Pitch. 3rd pitch on the description, We did it as the 2nd pitch

Climbing up high on the Centennial Route

Looking up from the bottom of the route (standard route). Disclaimer: We actually climbed the Hooven-Leo variation 100 feet left of this, so I am only guessing this is the start of the standard route based on the route description.

Cairn at the base of the Centennial Route on 8/16/19.

Pitch 1 of Hooven-Leo variation. To access the crack system, climb unprotectable terrain up the chimney on the left and make a committing step onto the face. From there, traverse easily to the crack system and start jamming!

Cruising the hand crack corner above the 5.10 finger crack pitch. We combined these together with minimal rope drag and belayed from the ledge seen here.

Roof on Pitch 2 of Hooven-Leo variation.

Hooven-Leo variation & Prow

This is Kyle Christenson approaching the base of the route

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