Go up the shelf of the third pitch to some trees. Look on the slab of rock for bolts. If you use two 60m ropes, you can almost reach the bottom. You can scramble off from where the ropes end.

All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > W Ridge > W Ridge - part… > Long John Wall (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)

Go up the shelf of the third pitch to some trees. Look on the slab of rock for bolts. If you use two 60m ropes, you can almost reach the bottom. You can scramble off from where the ropes end.

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Pitch 3.

Luke below the fourth pitch. Glad to be done with the offwidth hand crack of the third pitch and probably after seeing my anchor! It was bomber!

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Kaz Hatfield

May 1, 2018

“Go up the shelf of the third pitch to some trees. Look on the slab of rock for bolts. If you use two 60m ropes, you can almost reach the bottom. You can scramble off from where the ropes end.”

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Nearby Photos

Miguel standing at the base of the standard start (red) to Long John Wall. Ignominity in blue and Break on Through in yellow.

Donna laybacking on the "Break on Through" start.

Top of P3.

Marga enjoying the lead on the "Break on Through" start.

Donna floating over the crux on the "break on through" 5.8 start.

Long John Wall, first three pitches.

Steeper than it looks at first, this pitch will pump you up if you fail to "break on through". Mike Ryan gets credit for the photo.

Brian Weiss enjoys the view of Redgarden from the top of Long John Tower on Eldo's West Ridge. Photo by Tony Bubb, January, 2001.

Mike looks down from the crux overhung section of pitch 2.

George leading the first 2 pitches together on Long John Wall.

Eddie just finishing the crux moves of P3. Long John Wall, Eldorado Canyon SP, CO.

Luke trying to figure out the sequence of the crux on pitch three!

Warren on the traditional 3rd pitch, with climber following above.

P1 with P2 crux above.

Bring your number four! Don't have one? Borrow one from a friend. Don't have a friend that has one? Go buy one. Don't have enough money for one? Have fun!

Luke McCLure finishing the first pitch! The smile says it all. Don't skip the devious, awkward, and runout first pitch of this classic climb!

Janet Conner leading the last pitch of LJW

At the base.

Second pitch, crack up to the roof.

Full Break on Through start. Climb the slab, pull the roof, then go straight up the corner. To get to the tree belay that is the start of LJW p2, climb the slightly overhanging crack just visible at the top of the corner and go left.

Matt on P3.

Luke, about to get eaten right before the third pitch!

The fire in Walker Ranch that burned 1000 some acres started the day we climbed this route.

Slot start of the traditional third pitch.

Second pitch.

Last moves of the first pitch.

Start of second pitch.

Andrew Mason leading the second pitch of Long John Wall.

The second pitch ledge.

Pitch 3.

Go up the shelf of the third pitch to some trees. Look on the slab of rock for bolts. If you use two 60m ropes, you can almost reach the bottom. You can scramble off from where the ropes end.

Luke below the fourth pitch. Glad to be done with the offwidth hand crack of the third pitch and probably after seeing my anchor! It was bomber!

CM on the last pitch.

Quinn at the start of pitch two on a snowy Christmas morning.

Ignominity start. Not as good as the Break on Through start, but less likely to be occupied... and still better than the regular start.

Long John Wall from the ground. The line moves more or less straight up the center of the photo.

Evening light on the West Ridge from the P2 belay of Long John.

Long John Wall's third pitch, taken Jan. 2024.

Shane Murphy at a belay--note the rich, yellow lichen on the rock, typical of Eldo.

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