Down the canyon marked 'view' on the toppo. Another great spot at the end too. Not to be missed while doing this route.

All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Arches NP > Elephant Butte > Standard (W Fins) (5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a)

Down the canyon marked 'view' on the toppo. Another great spot at the end too. Not to be missed while doing this route.

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Crux headwall

Friend rapping in on the first.

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4.4 from 5 votes

Greg Kosinski

Mar 20, 2018

“Down the canyon marked 'view' on the toppo. Another great spot at the end too. Not to be missed while doing this route.”

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Nearby Photos

topo

A google-eye view of the route. The biggest route finding issues are spotting the right turn to go up to the second basin and, on descent, traversing under the small vertical wall until past the obvious gash before heading down.

From the summit

summit photo!

Summit.

Mike, setting up the first rap.

The final rap

Sand Valley

Crux headwall

Down the canyon marked 'view' on the toppo. Another great spot at the end too. Not to be missed while doing this route.

Friend rapping in on the first.

Sunset reflection

This is the final scramble to the summit. It's a weird class 4 move but not bad.

2nd rap!

last rapp off of Elephant Butte

This is above the first meadow. The crux is straight up the gully at the back of this meadow.

The hard to see pinnacle straight down in this photo is the left border of the gully leading to the descent rappel.

Taking a beginner to the summit. Not a bad day out.

Looking back down the rubble-filled gully. The short rib that needs to be climbed is visible coming out of the gully on the left.

Second rappel.

The rubble filled gully is the key to this route on Elephant Butte.

Entrance to the first canyon-y part, looking out towards Rocky/Bullwinkle

7' headwall crux with anchor cord as of 10-28-16. (Did it in Chocko sandals, so not too bad.)

From the top over looking the first rappel and the slot you take out.

This is the first meadow. The way to the crux is the gully leading up and to the right.

Summit!

Another topo with a different orientation. Park at the Garden of Eden lot and hike to the left of the Owl. This line skips the actual summit if you want to pass on that.

yee ha

Heading to the second rappel. Photo by Nancy Turner, with permission.

Transitioning from the down climb after the crux to the rappel ledge. Decent exposure to climber's right.

Astrida walking up the rib out of the beginning rubble filled canyon

scrambling above the slabby ascent into the next part of the canyon, good spot for lunch

last rap has air

at last rap

Summit of Elephant Butte

West Fins Route - First Rappel

Starting down the first rap. October 2012

This is the final descent canyon. As you come down off the summit go to the left of the obvious tower. Once in the canyon you'll pass through a lightly vegetated area before reaching the final rap station.

final rappel

from owl rock

Coming down the second and final rap. October 2012

Going through the first valley

This photo shows the new location of the anchor, which is made up of three half inch plated sleeve bolts, and chains. The park asks that any old anchors that need updating are replaced with stainless or Superior metal. Bummer this new rig is not.

First rappel.

Us on Elephant Butte - 2009

First Rappel. By Nancy Turner with permission.

This is looking towards the summit from above the first rappel. The slabs are what you must scramble up to reach the summit.

On top of the crux. The rappel anchors are just out of sight over the lip.

Getting close to the summit from the slabs. The cairn marking the weakness in the cliffs is straight ahead.

Tom Hanks

This is the crux on Elephant Butte. Some of us climbed it on the left and some went to the right.

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