Route Overlays Prusik Peak.

All Locations > Washington > Central-E Casca… > Stuart-Enchantm… > Prusik Peak > Stanley-Burgner (5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a)

Route Overlays Prusik Peak.

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Exiting the squeeze chimney.

You can either stick to the inside of the crack or use some small chickenheads off to climber's left to pull through the crux. 2nd to last pitch. 5.10-.

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4.9 from 57 votes

Steph Abegg

Sep 11, 2017

“Route Overlays Prusik Peak.”

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Route Overlays Prusik Peak.

You can either stick to the inside of the crack or use some small chickenheads off to climber's left to pull through the crux. 2nd to last pitch. 5.10-.

2 more moves to the summit. I found this to be the most difficult move/section of the entire climb. Feet disappear, crack becomes narrower and there is a big left heal hook to finish it off.

First pitch 5.8 variation. It is similar to the 5.10- flare pitch for a move or two. Not that easy.

The final pitch corner.

Red arrows are where we messed up the route and got all twisted. Don't be like us!!!

Final and Crux pitch. It's actually vertical despite the camera angle

D. Lucander on the outstanding final pitch corner of Prusik Peak S. Face

Mark enjoying the splitter 10b hand crack variation. Highly recommend this pitch.

Cruising the last pitch.

Pitch 5 tunnel

Cranking up the final pitch. What a great climb!

First pitch starting options. 5.7 chimney on the far right, or the 5.8 cracks just the left (really nice!).

Pitch 1 of Burgner Stanley is the wide hand crack on the left. Pitch 1 of Beckey-Davis is the chimney on the right. Can climb Pitch 1 of Burgner-Stanley and intersect Beckey-Davis route above this.

P3 (P2 for us since we combined 1+2). Go up 15 feet then hard right. Don't stop at the first shallow dihedral, but continue further to a clean corner / stem box. Small cams and nut will protect the traverse

Will topping out pitch #6, July 23, 2022.

Will beginning pitch #2, July 29, 2022.

Will topping out the off-width variation of pitch #1, July 29, 2022.

View from the summit block

Squeezing through the chockstone

Leading the great chimney pitch high up Stanley-Burgner route on Prusik Peak. I thought this was the best pitch of the route & not the somewhat overrated (IMHO) final pitch. June 2006.

Dan Hughes ascends the 3rd pitch cracks.

In the squeeze. Photo by Brad J.

"Handcrack" variation on P4

Exiting the squeeze chimney.

Also Appears In

Stanley-Burgner (5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a)

Beckey-Davis (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)

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