Going up the snow couloir to the start of west ridge ... bergschrunds to cross.

All Locations > Washington > Northwest Region > Hwy 20 & N Casc… > N Cascades > Boston Basin > Forbidden Peak > W Ridge (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow)

Going up the snow couloir to the start of west ridge ... bergschrunds to cross.

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The last bit of scrambling to the summit.

Summit pano with el dorado in the background

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5.0 from 2 votes

Emily Bei Cheng

Aug 7, 2017

“Going up the snow couloir to the start of west ridge ... bergschrunds to cross.”

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Nearby Photos

West Ridge of Forbidden Peak on Sept 20, 2014 near the top

West Ridge Forbidden Peak, North Cascades NP

Daniel and I on the west ridge

Very low visibility before it started to snow on the route

Looking down the West Ridge. Continuing past is the ridgeline that makes up the Torment-Forbidden traverse.

Nika executing the "airy step" just above the notch.

West Ridge, 1980s ascent

June 20, 2021. The general ascent route to the notch via the couloir and descent route via the Cat Scratch Gully (dots) as seen from 5600' camp.

West Ridge of Forbidden Peak ©Matt Baldelli Photography

Guide Elias Martos climbing the west summit.

After lunch on the summit, it's time to head down. Group Members heading back down the ridge with Moraine Lake in the background! Very exposed and scenic climb.

Looking down towards Moraine lake from the top.

The last bit of scrambling to the summit.

Going up the snow couloir to the start of west ridge ... bergschrunds to cross.

Summit pano with el dorado in the background

Great view of Boston Glacier from the summit

Climbing west ridge of forbidden peak in sept 2023

Eastward - standing on the summit!

At the top of the snowfield.

West Ridge

Traversing around crevasses beneath the steep west-ridge route couloir. June 2011

Eldorado Peak at Sunset, coming down ridge

Epic rope toss photo taken by Jack Frost

Looking up at the ridge from the notch.

Downclimbing off of Forbidden's West Ridge back toward Boston Basin. June 2011

Looks inviting, doesn't it? Forbidden goes into the clouds. This is the snowfield that is ascended to gain the start of the couloir.

Downclimbing the west-ridge route couloir of Forbidden Peak. June 2011

Rapping back down to the snowfield.

Looking down the Northwest Face to Forbidden Glacier with plenty of fresh snow on route.

A rap station adjacent to the snow couloir. 5-6 single rope rappels will get you down.

Looking back at the west summit from the east summit which is only a few feet higher. Can easily traverse under west summit block on the north side (right side of photo).

Forbidden Peak in the clouds from Boston Basin. The West Ridge couloir is the faint snow gully that ascends towards the West Ridge itself.

In the couloir above the small bergshrund.

Snowing on the route

Looking towards Johannesburg Mountain on the walk down.

Forbidden peak from the lower basin

Sitting on the summit of Forbidden Peak!

The foggy ridge.

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