Looking across at Nirvana from Mystery Spire.

All Locations > Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > W Sedona > Dry Creek Rd Area > Boynton Canyon > Nirvana Buttress > Nirvana (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)

Looking across at Nirvana from Mystery Spire.

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Ben channeling his inner caterpillar

Approach beta to true summit. Bring your approach shoes!

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4.8 from 4 votes

Derek Field

Feb 10, 2017

“Looking across at Nirvana from Mystery Spire.”

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Nirvana topo

Ben channeling his inner caterpillar

Looking across at Nirvana from Mystery Spire.

Approach beta to true summit. Bring your approach shoes!

07-03-20, with FA permission, Idaliza Sosa and I installed a two-bolt chain anchor at the top of the third pitch. We removed all webbing from the piñon tree previously used as an anchor. With a single 70m rope, you can rap directly to the P1 anchor.

Leading the first pitch on an early ascent. Photo: Giselle Fernandez

Rare glimpse of the Nirvana vortex tunnel from Krakatoa. The tips crack above it is too steep and chossy for me and anyone wants it can go for it.

Nearing the top of the second pitch. (Photo: Joey Taylor)

Scenic rappel

Really cool funnel feature I noticed on the rap down.

Location of Nirvana as seen from the turnoff from the main Boynton Canyon trail.

Thumbs up for the awesome first pitch!

Late afternoon at the third belay, on the first complete ascent. Contemplating where to go on Pitch 3. (Photo: Miranda Perrone)

Miranda leading the first pitch with husband Patrick on belay.

Angry Rattlesnake (See rattlesnake topo + 4/19/18 comment). BE CAREFUL!!

Bean leading the first pitch.
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(Photo: Giselle Field)

Very fun laybacking on the first pitch. (Photo: Giselle Field)

Parking lot view of one person on belay ledge below third pitch and two people on the 'dance floor': scan Nirvana skyline.

Looking out along the limestone ledge at Emma returning from the vortex tunnel.

Dave Spies reaching up to the bulge on P3 before the first bolt was added.

Climbers on the 1st pitch.

Me cleaning P1. I thought this pitch was the best part of the climb.

Looking down at Mark from middle of P2.

Rattlesnake Topo (see comment 4/19/18)

View of target gully from main trail

Screencap of approaches up the slabs from the main trail

Location of Nirvana as seen from Boynton Canyon trailhead.

On lead looking down at the top of p1

Nate and Alexis walking the limestone ledge. Photo taken from tunnel entrance.

Alexis surfing the endless positive holds on P2.

Nate (blue helmet) starting P2 with Alexis (orange shirt) standing in the scoops belay atop P1.

Patrick emerging from the tunnel.

Giselle laybacking the first pitch. Oops, sloppy belay.

Coming back down the easy 3rd class approach gully

great views from the top.

Top of the climb is an awesome place to hang out. We spent at least 30 minutes enjoying the view and watching clouds.

Mandatory bromance shot.

Top of the route.

Near the top of P2. Just clip and go. Next time I do this route, I'll leave the rack at the top of P1. The rest of the climb is just clipping bolts. Didn't feel like any supplemental trad gear was needed.

Mark coming up to the belay on P2.

Rap anchors from the bottom of P1 (near vortex tunnel exit) as of 11/22/2021.

Nate and Alexis emerging from the tunnel.

Bean styling the second pitch.
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(Photo: Giselle Fernandez)

Views are hard to beat.

Mark cruising up P1. The crux for me was actually getting off the ground and into "lie-back mode".

Cruising through "rattlesnake alley". Fortunately Mark went first and scared them all away.

I think I saw at least 7 cliff dwellings in and around us on approach. This one was the easiest to get to but also a bit worn down.

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Nirvana Buttress

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