Crack section

All Locations > N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Looking Glass Rock > Nose Area > Sundial Crack (5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c)

Crack section

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Headed up Sundial

The "Crack"

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Jed Niffenegger

Aug 7, 2014

“Crack section”

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Overkill hanging belay at the top of the 3rd pitch. It had been a while since I made a hanging belay. I kept looking for bolts that didn't exist at the end of the 3rd? pitch (read the guide afterward & it said "natural gear belay in an eyebrow"). And I just got sparkly new C3s and wanted to break them in.

Pitch two of Sundial Crack

more or less a topo. you can see the rings for p1 and p2 from the stance this was taken at. can combo p1andp2 with doubles rack and runnerz. P1 is choose yer own adventure.

My 5 year old son on pitch #2 of Sundial Crack

We are beginning the 3rd pitch. Me leading off after Ben got done with the business pitch.

Feeling purple at the P3 belay, up and to climber's left after exiting the namesake Sundial Crack. Photo by Zoey Fiber

Some easy scrambling up and to the right gets you to this spot above the last set of bolts. Sloping, so we stayed on long tethers, but a great spot to hang out, eat, enjoy the sunset, etc.

Sundial P1 late in the afternoon. Sea of granite

This gives a good idea of the angle of Sundial Crack near the top

The Eyebrow I used to anchor at top of P3. Was about 130ish feet, but honestly there were multiple eyebrows similar to this one around.

22 degrees...

First pitch of Sundial Crack. Anchors hidden behind bulge in middle of photo.

What I ended up using for an anchor at the end of P3. I'm not sure where the pitch is "supposed" to end, but I may not have gone far enough, since the last pitch ended up using all but maybe 15 feet of our 60m.

The rock turns golden in the late afternoon as Robert starts off on P3. Photo by Michael.

Moonrise on Sundial. Photo by Michael K.

Leading on Sundial crack.

Sharing the second belay with a friendly party.

P2 of Sundial angles more than the topo might suggest. Head about 45 degrees toward your right from the anchor....or just follow the swath of lichen-less stone.

P2 Sundial

P2 Sundial

Headed up Sundial

Crack section

The "Crack"

On the way to second pitch belay

Sundial Crack

I scope out placements leading the second pitch of Sundial Crack. Photo by Michael.

Sundial crack in May

Slabbing through the pitch two crux while guiding for Pisgah Climbing School! Photo: Chad Heying.

The "crack"

Jacob exits the 'Sundial Crack' just as the sun begins to crest Looking Glass.

This is the "crack" on Sundial Crack, Looking Glass, NC. It runs about 20?? ft long through the beginning of the 3rd pitch, if I remember correctly. Also visible are the "eyebrows" of LG, most of which are pretty protectable.

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