Climbers on the crux pitch (5.7 Direct).

All Locations > New Hampshire > Whitehorse Ledge > 07. The Slabs > Standard Route (5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R)

Climbers on the crux pitch (5.7 Direct).

ID 106832406 ·

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The arch. Photo by Loran Smith

Midway on Pitch 2

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cjdrover

Jul 20, 2010

“Climbers on the crux pitch (5.7 Direct). ”

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Nearby Photos

Overview of Standard Route done with the 'Quartz Pocket' and 'Direct Finish' variations

Into the unknown

Rainbow and foliage!

Simul climbing the slabs with the wife...

One of the weird holes in which tricams really do work best.

Following the crux

Me in the toilet bowl. Photo by Loran Smith

View of the right side sitting on lunch ledge

looking up from the lunch ledge

be prepared to run it out on easy slab

Solo to the launch pad

Looking back at a team at the toilet bowl (Oct. 9, 2019)

We chose to belay just after the traverse from gear... Here Dave is leading up from our belay to the right facing corner that could be considered a second crux (one of the best sections of the climb though)...

Protection on pitch 4

Dave Trumper starting the crux traverse photo taken from Lunch Ledge...<br>
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note: he has just clipped bolt 1 and bolt 2 is just above the sloping ledge less than 10 feet to his right...

Wife glaring at me on the final pitch before the dike.

Sewing up the Arch on the original P3 (and my preferred method)

dave at the top of the arch (looking up from the thread belay) just before getting to lunch ledge...

Hanging at the belay

Dave Trumper leading up from the Quartz Pocket on pitch 3... bring tricams for this pitch if you like protection...

The 2nd bolt on the traverse from Lunch Ledge.

Threaded Tunnel 1/2 way up P3 above the Toilet Bowl on the Quartz Pocket Variation (20+/-' to the Belay), The real first piece of protection after leaving the toilet bowl anchors, 50' +/- below. A cam goes in just as good, but this is cool!

Me on lunch rock with the real beauty behind me!

last few feet before lunch ledge

At the LONELY BOLT atop the 2ed to last Pitch (The Left Dike) The last Snow's of the year still viable in Huntington's

Quartz Pocket Belay View of the VALLEY

Bernardo heading from the thread-belay to the lunch ledge.

"POS" bolt on P3 30 +/- feet above the Toilet Bowl on the Quartz Pocket Variation (You pass an old stud just before it): first good pro. 50' up at the flake.

Beautiful view!

Brown Spot "POS" 80's 1/4" Spinner bolt , (In desperate need of replacement) Circa. 8/24

Leading P7 of Standard Route

Bernardo belaying at the two bolts at the very bottom of the arch on standard route. Ryan traversing to the belay after climbing up from "The Toilet Bowl" in the background.

Running it out up the dike on the final pitch.

standard

Mariann having fun on STD Route

Climbing direct from the launch pad to the base of the arch. TCU's in pocket at midpoint. 190 feet.

Endless slab as seen from the Launch Pad

Rapping standard route on my first day climbing outside. Summer 2000.

Quartz Pocket to Pinch Belay (tricams and #3 or #3.5 BD Camelot) still got a good 20' runout right off the anchor.

ben on the crux pitch

The arch. Photo by Loran Smith

Climbers on the crux pitch (5.7 Direct).

Midway on Pitch 2

Looking down the arch on Standard Route from "the mailbox". If you've got a 60m and you're coming up the arch and not the quartz pocket variation, do a semi-hanging belay here, you won't reach the thread-belay. 70m rope might make it.

Boiler Plate (80's "POS" Bolt) (In desperate need of replacement) circa 8/24

Panorama from lunch rocks! Beauty!

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