We drove too far not to summit on my birthday!

All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Fisher Towers > Ancient Art > Stolen Chimney (5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0)

We drove too far not to summit on my birthday!

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Stolen Chimney/Ancient Art Topo<br>
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I climbed the route for my second time last week and figured I'd make this while the route was still somewhat fresh in my mind. <br>
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A very comfortable rack would be 1.5 set of cams and a set of nuts. A single set of cams will suffice for more experienced leaders.<br>
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EDIT 5/12/12: Updated to reflect bolt replacement.

Ancient Art, as seen on the 2016 Summer Solstice.

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4.8 from 23 votes

Dean Hoffman

Sep 17, 2008

“We drove too far not to summit on my birthday! ”

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Trained a long time for this

The sun rising and warming up the towers on the final pitch

Cannon AE-1

The idea is a star trail topo of stolen chimney. I did a 2.5 hour exposure. I'm going to shoot it again because it is not what I was looking for. It's not bad so I figured I'd share it. The sky went green on it's own during the long exposure, perhaps it was some aurora borealis (not likely, I think I would have noticed it, but cameras can capture color that we can't see) or maybe a hot sensor, or my polarizer filter caused it, I really don't know.

Summited right at sunset

Mario descending from the corkscrew summit. That previous photo Cameron is Jimmy P, not me, and as you know its after a leap from the rim above all the towers and 2000' above the parking area. Cheers, where is your new FA in the system bro?

A fine evening on Ancient Art. Exposure is a little more manageable in the dark!

The Ancient Art of Humping by Tracy Roach. :-)

Summit of the corkscrew

Stolen Chimney/Ancient Art Topo<br>
<br>
I climbed the route for my second time last week and figured I'd make this while the route was still somewhat fresh in my mind. <br>
<br>
A very comfortable rack would be 1.5 set of cams and a set of nuts. A single set of cams will suffice for more experienced leaders.<br>
<br>
EDIT 5/12/12: Updated to reflect bolt replacement.

We drove too far not to summit on my birthday!

Ancient Art, as seen on the 2016 Summer Solstice.

Hula Hooping on top- is this a first?

Aaron Shupp demonstrating "jump 'n' hump" method on diving board

Climber on the summit of Ancient Art March 2008.

Jumping for joy on the summit!

Family Vacation! Tip top of Ancient Art

Wide angle pano of the top out.

Laura Sasso on Stolen Chimney

Glory light on the last pitch. More images here: http://charlesstemen.com/south-sixshooter-ancient-art-in-a-day/

Ben free climbing the 10+ bolt ladder.

Standing on the top. The shadow in the back outlines the scenario.

Exposure on the sidewalk

Summit of Ancient Art

Full moon photo shoot with @zachcooleyphoto

Climber on summit of Ancient Art, as seen from the trail bottom.

Eddie summit bound and doing some snow sweeping on a frigid January ascent of Ancient Art. Fisher Towers, UT.

Looking back from the summit

Stolen Chimney pitches

"Give me your tired, your poor, your huddled masses yearning to breathe free.."

Bailey Crawford summits with the sunset!

mitch with his head in the clouds

Dammit Steve, I almost couldn't pay out the rope fast enough!<br>
<br>
Photo by Lucy Clark

evening light

Myself practicing crane technique.

Rappelling off the catwalk back to the party ledge. Castleton Tower in the distance.

Gordon Larsen at the anchor slings. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bok4YyEj0GA shows POV of climbing the wild 4th pitch.

Classic summit shot!

The Sidewalk as seen from the summit

fisheye shot of stolen chimney. the first two pitches are a bit hazy...

Joey, tagging along on Ancient Art. It was his first desert tower.

Loren Seeks groveling up the chimney.

Yeeewww!!!

Matt with the Karate Kid summit.

Start of the cool chimney pitch. Interesting bulge above the climber.

Best moves on the route. Exposed, but juggy and well protected.

Ancient Angel

this is fun

The first and third pitches were a bit nerve wracking, with some pebbles to hold onto. The second pitch was an easy chimney, but it was fun. I used 6-7 pieces of protection, including cams and nuts. It was a bit scary at the end, but it was great！

The Money Pitch

At the summit!

Beta topo showing the belay stances and the rappel down the face. Companion doc for more experienced folks looking to save time and reduce risk on the traverse: https://goo.gl/opAmWB

Luckily it turned out that the raven is no longer the harbinger of doom, once thought to be.

Finishing after a stellar sunset

one legged pose atop the ancient art. great day to climb at fisher tower.

climbers on route

fighting the wind to summit Stolen Chimney! very cool line

Good thing there's a bomber piton next to this piece of history

Bowling Trophy

DO NOT DO THIS! We did not notice until a later ascent that this large block that Brent is yarding on is loose and held in place with mud. It looks like the perfect block to throw a sling over to protect the last move onto the belay ledge. If this baby goes, it will looks like it could just get funneled right down onto the first belay. Yikes!

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