Pitch 6. Some of that notorious Bugs weather. <br> Matt Lloyd Photo

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia-Shushwap > Bugaboos > Snowpatch Spire > Sunshine Crack (5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c)

Pitch 6. Some of that notorious Bugs weather.<br>
Matt Lloyd Photo

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Following the third pitch

The last pitch, hands and fists for 100', then hand traverse right and back up and left following the crack as it forms a backwards "C" to the top, awesome pitch.

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5.0 from 51 votes

Dane Peterson

Aug 6, 2008

“Pitch 6. Some of that notorious Bugs weather.
Matt Lloyd Photo”

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Pitch 6. Some of that notorious Bugs weather.<br>
Matt Lloyd Photo

The last pitch, hands and fists for 100', then hand traverse right and back up and left following the crack as it forms a backwards "C" to the top, awesome pitch.

The last pitch as seen from Bugaboo Spire

Gomoll slaying p2. Sunshine Cracks (11-), Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos, BC.

My well worn hands after Sunshine Crack.

Sunshine: the the sweetest crack in the Bugs!

Morning sun on the Sunshine Crack

Splitter fist crack of Pitch 10.

Route Overlay Sunshine Crack.

Climbers on Sunshine Crack.

The obvious line

Final moves on the last pitch.

August 2022, last pitch. Too bad the bottom pitches fell off!

Pitch 1.

On top of the route. North summit behind. Most parties rappel the route. But you can continue to the North summit via the Buckingham route and rapping the Beckey-Greenwood rappel route.

Sunshine…where is it?

Approaching Sunshine Crack.

North side of Snowpatch Spire seen from lower part of Kain Route.

Pitch 11 has two options: Either make a 5.10 bouldery move out left to gain a 5.8 crack or climb a 5.10+ crack to the right. We went left (pictured n the photo).

The first rappel. All of the rappels are off the belay anchors on the route. We made 8 double-rope rappels (rapped from anchors at tops of: P11, P9, P8, P7, P5, P4, P3, P1) to get down although I think we could have done it in 7 (could probably rap all the way to P2 from P). You definitely need two ropes (or a single 80m rope) to rappel the route, as some pitches are up to 40m long.

Pitch 7. The 5.11- roof is above.

Pitch 9. (this was when the sun first hit us on the route, at 2:30pm, July 28, 2106).

Andrew G. coming up the layback on pitch 3.

Jon on the hand rail of Pitch 3.

Rapping down the east face of snowpatch

The pitch 2 offwidth.

The roof on Pitch 5. The route line on our route description seemed to go over the roof just right of the crack on the lower wall. This move was an athletic jug pull over the roof with a somewhat desperate clip of a fixed nut. It felt 5.10. On the rappel we saw a party surmounting the roof further left, which looked a bit easier. That way had been a bit wet in the morning so we had not even really considered it. But it might be the easier way to go if dry. Either way works and is great climbing.

Pitch 6.

Pitch 4.

Pitch 2.

Unknown Climber on Pitch 2. Bugaboo Corner follows that OW crack and Sunshine pulls hands out the roof on the right crack just above climber in green, then follow a handrail right

Once the col is totally out: We climbed a short pitch of 5.7/8 on the left side of the broken blocks at the base of SW face (bottom of photo). Scramble right to the base of the big chimney. dont go up, climb around to the R at 5.5ish to base of route.

This is the bonus 50' 5.10 corner (followed by 4th class) we climbed to get to the base because the B-S col was unloading huge rocks every couple minutes. This pitch might be hard to access depending on the condition of the bergschrund.

Pitch 8.

upper pitch of Sunshine crack

D. Snipes on the 1st pitch of Sunshine Crack

Following the third pitch

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