Short cut to the summit through a icefall. We cut through this icefall and did not have to climb to the top of Point Success. It made the climb a bit more adventurous at the top

All Locations > Washington > South-W & Tacoma > Southwest Cascades > Mt Rainier NP > Mt Rainier > Kautz Glacier (WI2-3)

Short cut to the summit through a icefall. We cut through this icefall and did not have to climb to the top of Point Success. It made the climb a bit more adventurous at the top

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Final push to summit

Late-season (September 1st) ascent of the Kautz, taken from the top of P1. Climbers in the bottom right. Adams, Hood, and Saint Helens visibile.

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4.5 from 2 votes

Bill Bones

Aug 19, 2007

“Short cut to the summit through a icefall. We cut through this icefall and did not have to climb to the top of Point Success. It made the climb a bit more adventurous at the top ”

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Nearby Photos

Morning view from the ramp towards Mt. Adams. June 2005.

Mount Rainier, Kautz Glacier. Pat coming up to Camp Hazard. June, 2005.

Nearing Point Success, high on the Kautz Glacier.

Crossing a endless bottom Crevasse in the snowfield near the top

Looking down the Kautz Glacier Route from Halfway up the steep ice pitch section.

A Lenticular cloud seen after topping out the Kautz Ice Chutes

Climbing the ramp. I was struggling with the pickets and a rope so the camera is tilted. In reality the slope is more gradual. The photo makes it look like the Eiger.

High camp, just below Camp Hazard (July 3, 2017)

Good view of the route... Wilson Glacier and The Turtle, along with upper mountain

Wouldn't be Rainier without a snow bridge

Traverse under seracs following rock step, lower Kautz ice chute seen in distance - July 2019 (photo: Erick T.)

Lower Nisqually Glacier (traverse to Wilson Gully) - July 2019

Top of the ice step pitches on Kautz

Early morning on the Kautz before it gets steep

Camp before summit night.

Looking down from camp hazard towards Mt. Adams. July 2007

This was our camp, below camp hazard.

Looking down the Turtle with Kautz Ridge below and Mt. Adams on the horizon. June '05.

Approach below Nisqually

camping spot above the Turtle

Jake, walking onto the Kautz glacier at sunrise

on the turtle snowfield

An Alpine Ascents International climbing team approaching the upper ice chute of the Kautz Glacier.

Camp at the Castle on the Kautz

Mark and Tyler climbing Kautz June 2018

looking down pitch 2

Sunrise just above the ice steps

1 pitch of actual ice climbing on the route during our climb. July '17, about 1am.

On the second step in the Ice Chute in summer conditions.

Sitting east of the Wapowety Cleaver hiding from the wind, having just left the top of the Kautz Glacier.

Camp Hazard with Kautz ice cliffs in the background.

Final push to summit

Short cut to the summit through a icefall. We cut through this icefall and did not have to climb to the top of Point Success. It made the climb a bit more adventurous at the top

Late-season (September 1st) ascent of the Kautz, taken from the top of P1. Climbers in the bottom right. Adams, Hood, and Saint Helens visibile.

Descending the DC (July 6, 2017)

Eric and I on the second step

Blake, Shawn and John climbing the upper ice chute on the Kautz Glacier.

Resting between the two Ice Steps - July 2019

Many crevasses near the top

down the Kautz ice chute after a dual solo success.

December 30th 1999 at around 3am an apartment sized serac collapses while we were luckily camped safely behind a small rock outcrop at around 10,600 ft. Ice blocks from fist size to VW sized were littered all down the Turtle snowfield and onto the glacier

Willie Webster and team approaching the Ice Chute, rock step behind above the tents.

On belay in the Ice Chute!

Looking down the Ice Chute, camp is on the left right below the Rock Step

Approaching the Wilson Gully from the lower Nisqually Glacier - July 2019

Dallas Glass, leading one of the pitches on the 2nd step in the Ice Chute

Climber on the upper ice pitch of the Kautz ice Chute - July 2019

Scott just about to rope up for the nisqually Glacier

The june 2009 colorado team. Thanks again Ryan and Bryan the two rangers we got to climb with. Fun times

A Crevasse on the Nisqually Glacier before the fan

Pitch 2 and seracs of the Kautz Glacier. Mark on the right moving his belay to the left upon noticing a loose and dangerous serac overhead; a serac that would break and roll down the glacier no more than 5 minutes after this photo was taken (6/30/2021).

Paul on the second pitch

Looking back from the Turtle snowfield

Upper Nisqually from the Wapowety Cleaver

Kautz Ice Chute with camp below the Rock Step - July 2019

Our ascent

Descending the Ice Chute after a long day

Porter McMichael getting it in the second step of the Ice Chute

Getting out of the Ice chute onto the Upper Kautz Glacier

Looking up the Kautz Ice chutes

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