Ghiacciaio del Rutor near the Rifugio A. Deffeyes above La Thuile, Italy. The Deffeyes hut keeper congratulated David Panofsky, his wife, Pat Smith and I for being the first party that season to venture up the Glacier du Planaval from the Val Grisanche in Italy to get to where I took this picture and eventually to the Refugio. A short section of the actual trek (Via Alta #4) we completed runs along the French Border in this area on the other side of Rutor Glacier. We had to make a detour and ascend up to the Rutor Glacier from Italy because the French huts had closed for the season a day early. It had been and continued to be a very bad season for climbing in the Alps due to warmer than normal conditions. We had only brought trekking poles and in-step crampons and experienced a number of close calls crossing the Glacier du Planaval and then ascending its steep lateral moraine on its northern boundary in the heat of the day (9/98). <br> <br> Photo by Paul Huebner

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Coming off of 1st ascent of Peak 8020 above the Kahiltna Glacier during AMS Mountain Guide Course (5/00). <br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

Somewhere in the Yukon between Haines and Haines Jct., Alaska (7/01). <br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

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Paul Huebner

Aug 16, 2007

“Ghiacciaio del Rutor near the Rifugio A. Deffeyes above La Thuile, Italy. The Deffeyes hut keeper congratulated David Panofsky, his wife, Pat Smith and I for being the first party that season to venture up the Glacier du Planaval from the Val Grisanche in Italy to get to where I took this picture and eventually to the Refugio. A short section of the actual trek (Via Alta #4) we completed runs along the French Border in this area on the other side of Rutor Glacier. We had to make a detour and ascend up to the Rutor Glacier from Italy because the French huts had closed for the season a day early. It had been and continued to be a very bad season for climbing in the Alps due to warmer than normal conditions. We had only brought trekking poles and in-step crampons and experienced a number of close calls crossing the Glacier du Planaval and then ascending its steep lateral moraine on its northern boundary in the heat of the day (9/98).

Photo by Paul Huebner ”

Nearby Photos

View from the summit of the Cima Piccolo(Kleine Zinnen) in the Tre Cima di Lavaredo National Park in the Italian Dolomites. We ascended the normal route (II, 5.7) in 7/90.<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

Another rope team ascending Glacier Dome in the Purcells, British Columbia (8/88).<br>
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Asst. Guide Johnny Soderstrom just before we begin to probe new campsite for crevassses (AMS Mountain Guide Course 5/00). Note Mt. Foraker in the background with lenticular cloud formation.<br>
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View of Spectacle Lakes from Ypsilon Mountain summit 8/11

Zoomed-in view of Mt. Foraker (Sultana) from summit of Peak 8020.<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

Moving down the Kahiltna from Denali Base Camp towards Peak 8020, and eventually on to Little Switzerland (AMS Mountain Guide Course 5/00).<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

View to the north from the Matterhorn's summit shows the Gabelhorn in the foreground, the black Dent Blanche to the left, and the Zinalrothorn and Weisshorn beyond (7/90).<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

Second rope team ascending Peak 8020 from the Kahiltna Galcier (AMS Mountain Guide Course 5/00). <br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

Summit of the Petit Du Cheval with view of the Liberty Bell Massif (8/04). <br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

Approaching the Matterhorn's Hornli Ridge on the way to the Hornli Hutte. The hut can be seen on left side of the picture on the lower section of the ridge (7/90).

The ruins of Tiwanaku, a pre-Incan city/ceremonial center built around 700 A.D. The site is located near the southern shore of Lake Titicaca in Bolivia (5/93).

Flying into Wrangell/St. Elias to climb Mt. Bona (5/02).<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

Nevado Illimani's North 21,205 ft. summit (6/93). Note: Tommy Caldwell in yellow at age 14.

Ascending Popocatepetal in Mexico with Iztaccihuatl in the background (1/94).<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

Loading up the packs on horses in Estancia Una, before beginning trek to Base Camp for climb of Nevado Illimani in Bolivia (6/93).<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

View of south summit and the clouded over Yungas (highlands) from just below the 21,205 ft. high north summit of Illimani (6/93).<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

Leaving crevasse rescue practice area near Denali Basecamp and Mt. Hunter (5/00).<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

Lake of the Hanging Glaciers from upper slope on Glacier Dome in British Columbia (8/88).<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

Approaching Cleaver & Commander Peak from high camp in the Purcells in British Columbia (8/88)<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

One of our 8 campsites during the AMS Mountain Guide Course (5/00).<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

Cold feet on El Pico di Orizaba in Mexico during ice storm at about 17,500 feet (1/94).<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

Setting up rappel above Ice Lakes during descent on the south side of Mt. Moude after ascending Entiat Icefall on the north side (8/04).

Entire normal route up Huayna Potosi in Bolivia is shown (6/93). After crossing dam and walking along the viaduct, which ends near the lighter colored rock, the route follows up the sharp lateral moraine. Our Camp 1 was just below the black slope in the middle of the picture. High Camp is at about 18,500 feet on the snow plateau above. The route then goes to the right and up through headwall to snow ridge on the right edge of the picture. Eventually a very sharp ridge leads to the left up to the approx. 20,000-foot high summit, which is the second and furthest peak in the photo. <br>

Ascending Entiat Icefall on Mt. Moude<br>
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View of the Granta Parei along the Franco-Italian Border, while completing the 183 Km trek of the Alta Via 4 w/Pat Smith & David Panofsky (9/98). <br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

Chasm Lake with Alpen Glow on the Diamond

Signing the summit register on the Cima Piccolo with the Cima Grande (Grosse Zinnen, which we climbed the next day) in the background (7/90).

Karl Schalapschi (68 and a year or two after having had triple by-pass surgery) at the summit hut on Marmolata (7/90).<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

Two Canadians following us on Izta (1/94). I'm standing on "Going to the Sun Ridge." The true summit at 17,343 feet, when you finally see it after the last false summit on the 12-mile round trip route, is still 2 miles away and only 10 feet higher in elevation. I should also note that the route starts at an elevation of over 13,000 feet.<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

Climbers approaching the Matterhorn's summit from the Italian side (Note Italian summit cross). Photo by Paul Huebner from the higher (14,690 ft.) Swiss summit (7/90).

Heading up tributary from a lower camp on the Pika Glacier to establish a snow cave high camp on a small col near peaks named Her Highness and the Italian Boot (AMS Mountain Guide Course 5/00).

Hugh Gaasch all loaded up and ready to go (AMS Mountain Guide Course 5/00).<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

The Italian Boot, one of the two peaks we climbed from our snow cave high camp (AMS Mountain Guide Course 5/00).<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

Mt. Hunter from crevasse rescue practice area (AMS Mountain Guide Course 5/00).<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

Assiniboine High camp with the Bob Hind Hut and the hanging Assiniboine Glacier to the right. Taken from the top of the East Ridge of Mt. Strom (8/91).<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

Cloud Falls in Glacier Peak Wilderness (8/04).<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

Ascent of Mt. Sturdee. After ascending the Southeast Couloir, a short traverse to the northeast brings you to the start of a full rope pitch of easy rock (5.5) with one horn to sling for pro. P2 goes up a wide (5.4) chimney that tops out right below the summit. To descend we down-climbed the chimney and set up a rap that brings you back down to where you can traverse back to the southeast couloir. Approach from high camp is up and over the Assiniboine-Strom Col and then down to and across Icefield, and then south up along the East Ridge of Mt. Asinniboine to the Assiniboine-Sturdee Col. Cross the col over to the hidden couloir (8/91). <br>
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Hans Steykal and I climbed the Southwest Ridge of the Zinal-Rothorn starting at the notch about the mid point in the ridge (28 pitches, IV, 5.7). Crux is in chimney on north side above 13,000 feet. Approach from the Rothorn Hutte involved crossing 3 glaciers, 1 tricky Bergshrund and 4th Class rock. We descended the normal route (Southeast Ridge), which comes towards you in the picture. Our time hut to hut was 14 hrs. Epic descent hike (on rubbery legs after eating a meal) back to Zermatt occurred because we had to be in Chamonix the next day (7/90). Photo was taken from the summit of the Riffelhorn, which I soloed the day before and the same day Hans and I hiked up to the Rothorn Hutte. I had younger legs back then.

Petit du Cheval is the formation on the left and 5.8 route named Spontaneity Ridge follows the right edge of the formation just left of the rock slide gully (8/04).

Ascending steep peak named Her Highness (AMS Mountain Guide Course 5/00).<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

Looking back down the Southwest Ridge of the Zinal Rothhorn with the Matterhorn in the background (7/90).

Ascending Gmoser's Highway up the 1,000 ft. high headwall below Mt. Assiniboine on a trip I helped guide for the Iowa Mountaineers. Pro is slim to none and rockfall hazard is extreme (8/91). <br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

Ascending the Southwest Ridge of the Zinal Rothorn (7/90).

Rope team I led up Mt. Strom with Mt. Sturdee -- a satellite peak of Mt. Assiniboine on the left in the background (8/91).<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

Paul Huebner on Zinal Rothorn summit at 4221m (7/90).

Rope team I led up Mt. Sturdee (8/91).<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

Looking south from the Zinal Rothorn's summit. Note airplane flying down the Vispal Valley below us.

Leading up the Leaning Column of the Durrance on Devil's Tower, which was my first multi-pitch lead climb (5/89).

Ute Trail from Trail Ridge Road in RMNP<br>
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Green Lake w/Paul Horton (JHMG) west of Cleaver Peak and Maidenform Peak in the Tetons (9/89).<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

View of Longs Peak from top of Hallett Peak in RMNP 8/11

Stembecco (Alpine Ibex) are now quite common in the Gran Paradiso Parco Nazionale, which was originally created in the Val d' Aosta in Italy in 1821 to protect what is one of the largest mammals indigenous to the Alps from over hunting (9/98).<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

The Mummy Range in RMNP equals fantastic day hike. All 3 peaks are very accessible in an isolated area 8/11

Which way do we go to get out of La Thuile, Italy (9/98)?

Little Matterhorn reflected in Odessa Lake, RMNP

Ascending Via Ferrata installed on Marmolata (7/90).<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

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