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All Locations > Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of… > N Rim Routes > Aretes > Porcelain Arete (5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a)
Bush in face, grappling with the peg, cowering from the blinding heat: our Porcelain experience. Fun route. Maybe don't climb it in June.
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The start of the 2nd pitch after running a full 70m from the start of the 1st. We traversed left under the trees and then hard left. The giant right facing dihedral for pitches 7 and 8 are visible on the sunlit section high above.
The Porcelain Arete.
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Rob Dillon
May 22, 2007
“Bush in face, grappling with the peg, cowering from the blinding heat: our Porcelain experience. Fun route. Maybe don't climb it in June.”  

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Nearby Photos

Porcelain Arete.
Looking up from the base. Find the weakness left of the roof, and scramble up the gully near the chockstnone. Traverse back right before the second big chockstone in the gully.
P6 moving over to the massive right-facing corner (bad rope drag on this section… it is best to break it up).
P6 belay below the large corner - it is best to break this pitch up due to hellish rope drag. Cedar Point zone in the background.
P4/P5 zone. Bushtastic.
Pitch 2 - airy traverse left to belay stance below P3 crack/corner (the fixed cam is gone).
Pitch 9.
Big, left facing dihedral of pitches 7 and 8.
Pitches 4 and 5.
The start of the 3rd pitch. We did not find a fixed cam as the guidebook suggested, but the pitch otherwise lined up.
The start of the 2nd pitch after running a full 70m from the start of the 1st. We traversed left under the trees and then hard left. The giant right facing dihedral for pitches 7 and 8 are visible on the sunlit section high above.
Bush in face, grappling with the peg, cowering from the blinding heat: our Porcelain experience. Fun route. Maybe don't climb it in June.
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