Black Dike in marginal conditions, March, 2005.

All Locations > New Hampshire > NH Ice & Mixed > - Franconia Notch > Cannon Ice Climbs > Black Dike (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI4+ M3)

Black Dike in marginal conditions, March, 2005.

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Nick doing the famous rock traverse, although he is a bit higher than its typically done. You can see piton sling mess of the usual traverse in the bottom left corner. There is a permanent 0.3 X4 cam where he is as of 2019, new pro....

A "distant view" for scale and perspective ... not sure if this represents "typical" ice ...<br>
<br>
Whitney Gilman climbing route on the left side of the Black Dike<br>

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3.3 from 3 votes

Kris Gorny

Dec 11, 2006

“Black Dike in marginal conditions, March, 2005. ”

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Nearby Photos

Traverse into crux at the beginning of the second pitch. Photo by Paul Crowder, 1989.

Me on the second pitch, shot by Dave Dillon of Chase the Summit

Bryan Becker negotiating the 'rock traverse' in 1977. He was climbing with Alain Comeau, while I was on Fafnir with Mark Whiton.

The 'Phez' (Jeff Pheasant) at the top of the 2nd pitch - late winter 1976.

This photo topo was a joint effort between Dave Dillon of Chase the Summit and myself. A detailed route guide is here: https://northeastalpinestart.com/2019/01/10/route-guide-climbing-the-black-dike/

Black Dike Rescue 2/4/17 Up to 24 climbers and rescue personnel assisted in the successful rescue of an injured climber from the Black Dike.

John Bouchard on P1 in 1975. With him that day was Jean-Claude Droyer and myself. I was so embarrassed when I felt like I needed to ask for a rope on this pitch. John was John but he graciously threw down a rope so I could follow with a belay.

Black Dike. Incredible, wind-swept ice fomations on the last pitch (WI2-3). 01 March '09.

Black Dike, March, 2005. The lower part of the ice section was "out". Pat McCarthy and I climbed the lower section to the right and traversed left into the ice fall. We found some pitons on the first pitch.

Negotiating the rock traverse February 23, 2017.

Overexcited

black dike/fafnir area

Mid February, 2012

Saturday, February 11, 2012

Starting up the second pitch. Full moon on 4.4.15

Nick doing the famous rock traverse, although he is a bit higher than its typically done. You can see piton sling mess of the usual traverse in the bottom left corner. There is a permanent 0.3 X4 cam where he is as of 2019, new pro....

Black Dike in marginal conditions, March, 2005.

A "distant view" for scale and perspective ... not sure if this represents "typical" ice ...<br>
<br>
Whitney Gilman climbing route on the left side of the Black Dike<br>

The low rock traverse into the ice runnel. 12.15.21

Pitch Two In Prime Condition

Rob Garneau cruising the crux - March 2015

Black Dike Rescue - photo 3

Black Dike Rescue - photo 4

Approaching the Black Dike January 2018.

Black Dike Rescue - photo 2

Matt D coming up to a screw anchor at the fat end of P2. 12/18/21

Dan Kilburn at the Traverse

the Black Dike in great condition with a party at the first belay.

Ray getting to the p1 belay. The only ice found on this pitch

Full route from the base, very thin to no ice conditions on majority of the route

Looking up from start of Pitch 3 (Feb 2017)

Shawn crushing the thin and bubbly second pitch.

Pat emerging from the end of Pitch 2.

Bradley White ready for pitch 3.

Pitch 2

Pete A below the Crux Traverse

Kevin McDermott leading the rock traverse 1/7/21

Headed up to the Dike for an early season accent 11/30/21

Ryan Barber at belay on top of second pitch.

Finish of the steep ice on the second pitch.

Looking down while on the second pitch.

Pitch 2. Mixed traverse towards the ice fall.

someone on the dike

April 7th 2024. Tom Lasky coming up the last crux on P2 (awesome mixed climbing conditions)

Mary Erdei and Ken Sims at the TOP of the 'BLACK DIKE' in 1980

Ray in the rock traverse, without ice to swing into after the traverse and continuing mixed/drytooling this does not go at M3.

Mary Erdei and Ken SIms enjoying the warm afternoon sun while pausing in the 'rut' while descending from the 'Dike' in March 1980

Jan 2022 conditions exceptionally fat and picked out made for cake walk conditions

Dan Cousins on p3 (Warthogs were used in "Turf")

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