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All Locations > California > San Francisco B… > E Bay Area > Mt Diablo SP > Boy Scout Rocks > Lower Tier > Diagonal Crack (5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b)
If you don't truly trust your feet on the thin face holds, this climb can be very pumpy. Gear is good but you need a large variety of gear as the placements vary tremendously. Hexes, stoppers, cams, and even tricams make for good placements. Smaller sizes too if the rock doesn't shear.
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Thin edging and secure foot jams make for interesting sequences up the crack.
The rope in the picture displays where to set up a top rope.
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Paul Rezucha
Jun 6, 2006
“If you don't truly trust your feet on the thin face holds, this climb can be very pumpy. Gear is good but you need a large variety of gear as the placements vary tremendously. Hexes, stoppers, cams, and even tricams make for good placements. Smaller sizes too if the rock doesn't shear.”  

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Nearby Photos

John after a whipper when his pro pulled out. Additional gear is not a bad idea.
Birds nesting in the crack about two thirds of the way up, be careful not to reach too deep into the crack.
Gwen Rose follows 'Diagonal Crack' (5.10) at Mt Diablo. Photo by Tony Bubb, 9/03.
Approaching the final moves, a long clip to the bolt up and right is quite hard. As the bolt hanger is about 1" from the rock, lassoing the bolt itself is a good idea. A hard, thin, long reach is then required to reach a final jug. Two new bolts are found just left around the corner on the face.
Thin edging and secure foot jams make for interesting sequences up the crack.
If you don't truly trust your feet on the thin face holds, this climb can be very pumpy. Gear is good but you need a large variety of gear as the placements vary tremendously. Hexes, stoppers, cams, and even tricams make for good placements. Smaller sizes too if the rock doesn't shear.
The rope in the picture displays where to set up a top rope.
This route is a bit hard to toprope but I think I could have done a better job! Look out for that swing Brad!
Brad about 1/2 way up. The final crux section is up above after the little alcove.
Brad about 15' up Diagonal Crack above initial crux.

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Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
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