Edward Medina > Comments

Apr 13, 2025 Grand Junction… > Unaweep Canyon > Main Canyon: Un… > Access Fund Tra… > Hidden Valley Wall Made In the Shade 5.8+ ● I brought 2 - #3 Camalots. View Comment
Sep 23, 2024 Ouray vicinity… > Left Field Cain Struck Abel Out 5.11a ● There is a gong like flake as you step up to the blonde shield of rock. Pull down...not out. View Comment
Nov 11, 2023 Grand Junction… > Unaweep Canyon > Main Canyon: Un… > Sun Tower Complex > Beehive/Daffy Duck Pi… Queen's Dance 5.9 ● Definitely combine pitches 2 and 3. View Comment
Oct 23, 2023 1. Southern Mou… > Cedar Rock > Cedar Rock - North > Darkness on the Edge (5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b) Birds eye view of the pitch ● Sean Cobourn View Comment
Jun 4, 2022 Grand Junction… > Unaweep Canyon > Main Canyon: Un… > Wildcat Complex > Music Mountain Cold and Ugly 5.9 ● Consider adding a second quicklink or rap rings to each of the rappel bolts. Current setup is very kink ind… View Comment
Apr 11, 2021 Ouray vicinity… > Pool Wall > Alcove Cosmic Anosmia 5.12b ● Updated with lowering chains. Cleaned up some suspect holds. View Comment
Jan 14, 2018 Montrose > Dry Creek Crag > Right Side Patina Crack (submitted as Unknown 10a (1)) 5.10- ● This route got updated with stainless steel glue-ins on 1/14/2018. View Comment
Sep 10, 2017 Telluride/Norwo… > Ophir > Ophir Wall > Ophir Wall southwest Via Alpinista 5.9+ ● I found the crux climbing to be on pitch 7. The crux moves are not bolt protected. Without a few cams, you… View Comment
May 18, 2015 Grand Junction… > Escalante Canyon > Zappa Wall The Curve 5.11a ● FA - Jim Nigro & Janet Robinson, circa 1990. View Comment
May 18, 2015 Grand Junction… > Escalante Canyon > Zappa Wall Uncle Remus (aka Short Corner) 5.10+ ● Originally named Uncle Remus. FA - Greg Phillips & Dave Henritze View Comment
May 18, 2015 Grand Junction… > Escalante Canyon > Zappa Wall Muffin Man (aka Leaning Corner or Moderation) 5.9- ● Originally named Muffin Man. FA by Dave Henritze and Greg Phillips. View Comment
Mar 16, 2015 Ouray vicinity… > Pool Wall > Deep End > Dirty Sanchez (5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c) Dirty Sanchez. ● not all bolts marked View Comment
Feb 21, 2015 Naturita & Para… > Atomic Energy Crag Rancho Deluxe 5.10 ● Best route (so far) on this wall. I don't think there is a single move of .10a climbing on here, but there… View Comment
Feb 9, 2015 Grand Junction… > Unaweep Canyon > Main Canyon: Un… > Mother's Buttress > Wolfmother's Dolphin Girl 5.8 ● I thought the right hand start was pretty spicy. I had a marginal, #3 rigid Friend in a shallow horizontal… View Comment
Feb 9, 2015 Grand Junction… > Unaweep Canyon > Main Canyon: Un… > Mother's Buttress > Wolfmother's Monk Sandals 5.9 ● We climbed a variation to this climb today. After clipping the second bolt, head up and right into the deep… View Comment
Dec 17, 2014 1. Southern Mou… > Rumbling Bald > Rumbling Bald B… > W Side Boulders > Cave Boulder The Ladder V1 ● Can anyone confirm that this is the problem called 'The Ladder'? View Comment
Jul 7, 2014 Lyons > St Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St Vr… > Watchtower The Watchtower Corner 5.8+ ● Walk a #6 Camalot through the crux slot. Did not find rap rings in notch belay. Easy walkoff. View Comment
Jul 7, 2014 Lyons > St Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St Vr… > Watchtower West Face AKA Cold Feelings 5.7 R ● Climbed this today lured in by the moderate appearance of the first pitch. Combined pitches 1 and 2 with a… View Comment
May 28, 2014 3. Piedmont Region > Pilot Mountain > 08. Amphitheater Blind Prophet 5.12b/c PG13 ● Were these put in with the permission of the park? If not this is one of those things that could harm climb… View Comment
May 26, 2014 3. Piedmont Region > Pilot Mountain > 08. Amphitheater Blind Prophet 5.12b/c PG13 ● How does the permadraw make it safer? Are the bolts poorly positioned? View Comment
Mar 2, 2014 1. Southern Mou… > Rumbling Bald > Wall of Solitude Mohito 5.8+ ● Definitely worth the long walk in. As the line gradually steepens the fist jams and jugs get better and be… View Comment
Feb 13, 2014 2. Northern Mou… > Linville Gorge > Amphitheater The Mummy 5.5 ● Jeff, Actually leaving the safety field blank is interpreted as the 'safest' rating. View Comment
Dec 7, 2013 3. Piedmont Region > Crowders Mountain > Main Climbing A… > 05. Rising Sun Wall Ask Mr. Science 5.10- ● Anchor bolts and top two protection bolts were replaced 12/7/2013. View Comment
Dec 7, 2013 3. Piedmont Region > Crowders Mountain > Main Climbing A… > 06. Red Wall The Gimp 5.10c ● Replaced bolts three and four with stainless steel glue-ins 12/7/2013. View Comment
Dec 7, 2013 3. Piedmont Region > Crowders Mountain > Main Climbing A… > 06. Red Wall Master Beta 5.10c ● All protection bolts replaced 12/7/2013. The existing bolt holes were cleaned and reconfigured to accept st… View Comment
Nov 22, 2013 3. Piedmont Region > Crowders Mountain > Main Climbing A… > 06. Red Wall TKO 5.12a ● Top anchor replaced with stainless steel glue-ins. 11/23/13 View Comment
Nov 22, 2013 3. Piedmont Region > Crowders Mountain > Main Climbing A… > 07. Resurgence… > New Policy Wall New Policy 5.10d ● The initial replacement of the top anchor has been corrected. The new (new) anchor was moved back to its or… View Comment
Nov 22, 2013 3. Piedmont Region > Crowders Mountain > Main Climbing A… > 06. Red Wall Scramble My Feedback 5.10a ● The protection bolt on this route was replaced 11/23/2013. Old bolt hole was re-used. Stainless steel glue-… View Comment
Nov 21, 2013 1. Southern Mou… > Rumbling Bald > Cereal Wall Fair-Weather Friend 5.7 ● Historical note - Some debate ensued upon this route's completion due to issues of style. Those can be view… View Comment
Nov 7, 2013 1. Southern Mountains… Cedar Rock ● No set rules. This is, with some exceptions, a ground-up crag in a wilderness setting. Bolts in close prox… View Comment
Oct 31, 2013 3. Piedmont Region > Hanging Rock SP > Cooks Wall > Cookbook Area > Cookbook Upper Cookbook (Warfare Area) ● Let me know when you come Mr. Brown. I'd love a guided tour. View Comment
Oct 24, 2013 3. Piedmont Region > Stone Mountain > Stone Mtn S Face Entrance Crack 5.5 R ● This one can feel tough for the grade Russ. I remember trying to cram myself into the crack the first time… View Comment
Sep 14, 2013 3. Piedmont Region > Crowders Mountain > Main Climbing A… > 14. Car Wall Burn Signals 5.10c/d ● I was at the base of the Car Wall recently and eyeballed this line again in light of the recent comments he… View Comment
Jul 8, 2013 1. Southern Mou… > Rumbling Bald > Cereal Buttress Fruit Loops 5.7+ ● Might be hard for a 5.11 trad leader to notice the nuanced difference between 5.7 and 5.7+, but this climb… View Comment
Jun 11, 2013 2. Northern Mou… > Linville Gorge Linville River Crag ● as the crow flies, yes. But you would have to drive a good bit to get from the West side of the gorge over… View Comment
May 1, 2013 1. Southern Mou… > Rumbling Bald > Cereal Wall > Angell Falls (5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b) 1st belay. Just below the crux headwall pitch. ● Foreshortening in full effect. The headwall pitch is short, but it ain't THAT short. View Comment

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Edward Medina > Comments

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