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| Elevation: | 4,794 ft | 1,461 m |
| GPS: |
44.59048, -104.71507 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 1,054,622 total · 3,832/month | |
| Shared By: | Peter Gram on Jun 29, 2002 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
Description
The native name for Devils Tower is Bears Lodge. This is a special place for many people besides climbers, and it is important to respect the closure for the entire month of June!
Devils Tower crams a high concentration of great cracks into the smallest area possible. People come from around the world to climb on this unique wonder. Climbing is sustained, and cracks are beautiful and uniformly shaped. Essentially, there is a crack every 5 or 10 feet, and they mostly run perfectly up and down, which reduces rope drag. The majority of the tower is less than vertical, and faces are blank. There are few face climbs, but who needs them with all these splitter cracks?
The easiest route to the summit is Durrance, which is stout 5.6. In general, climbs that are 5.8 and under tend to be offwidths, 5.9 are hand cracks, and 5.10 are finger cracks. There are too many classics to list. However, check out Assembly Line, Walt Bailey, and Soler for 5.9. For 5.10, go to One-Way Sunset, Hollywood & Vine, and Tulgey Wood.
See "Descent" section below for detailed information regarding rap options.
Devils Tower crams a high concentration of great cracks into the smallest area possible. People come from around the world to climb on this unique wonder. Climbing is sustained, and cracks are beautiful and uniformly shaped. Essentially, there is a crack every 5 or 10 feet, and they mostly run perfectly up and down, which reduces rope drag. The majority of the tower is less than vertical, and faces are blank. There are few face climbs, but who needs them with all these splitter cracks?
The easiest route to the summit is Durrance, which is stout 5.6. In general, climbs that are 5.8 and under tend to be offwidths, 5.9 are hand cracks, and 5.10 are finger cracks. There are too many classics to list. However, check out Assembly Line, Walt Bailey, and Soler for 5.9. For 5.10, go to One-Way Sunset, Hollywood & Vine, and Tulgey Wood.
See "Descent" section below for detailed information regarding rap options.
Getting There
Drive to Sundance, Wyoming, and then take highway 24 north from I-90. Just follow the signs, and drive towards the big chunk of stone. Turn into the monument and pay the entrance fee. Then continue to the visitor's center. From here, make sure to register for the climb (this is free - used for record keeping and rescues, etc.). Then, approaches differ by route from here.
Descent
Per user Where's Walden:
Descent from the summit of the tower is possible with a single 70 meter rope (or two 60's). No matter what route you take, ALWAYS knot your ends and beware of rope eating cracks which are prevalent on the tower. To descend, find a bolted rap anchor on the south side of the tower (climbers right of Durrance) that is accessed by scrambling 15" down from a large cairn. A 35M rappel will bring you a flat stage in the meadows. From there, you have two main options:
Bowling Alley Rappels: These rappels take you to the large bowl directly below the Durrance, a short hike from the paved trail. To locate the rap line, hike about 20 meters right (west) and slightly down from the flat stage to find a bolted anchor on a large block. From here, three ~34M rappels will bring you to the ground. The final rappel requires about 10 feet of unroped 5.5 down climbing from a poor stance, so plan accordingly.
Exit Us Rappels: These rappels deposit you on the ledges at the base of TAD and Soler from which you can walk the narrow ledges around west and down to the ground (sketchy when wet). To locate the anchor, from the flat stage hike far down and left (east) to the bottom corner of the meadows. Two 1/2 inch rappel bolts await you. From here, do 3 rappels to the large treed ledge at the base of Soler. Try not to throw your ropes onto parties climbing below.
Descent from the summit of the tower is possible with a single 70 meter rope (or two 60's). No matter what route you take, ALWAYS knot your ends and beware of rope eating cracks which are prevalent on the tower. To descend, find a bolted rap anchor on the south side of the tower (climbers right of Durrance) that is accessed by scrambling 15" down from a large cairn. A 35M rappel will bring you a flat stage in the meadows. From there, you have two main options:
Bowling Alley Rappels: These rappels take you to the large bowl directly below the Durrance, a short hike from the paved trail. To locate the rap line, hike about 20 meters right (west) and slightly down from the flat stage to find a bolted anchor on a large block. From here, three ~34M rappels will bring you to the ground. The final rappel requires about 10 feet of unroped 5.5 down climbing from a poor stance, so plan accordingly.
Exit Us Rappels: These rappels deposit you on the ledges at the base of TAD and Soler from which you can walk the narrow ledges around west and down to the ground (sketchy when wet). To locate the anchor, from the flat stage hike far down and left (east) to the bottom corner of the meadows. Two 1/2 inch rappel bolts await you. From here, do 3 rappels to the large treed ledge at the base of Soler. Try not to throw your ropes onto parties climbing below.
Resources
National Park Service / Devil's Tower site - Check for all the typical NPS stuff - camping, access, etc.
Devil's Tower Climbing - Great site full of useful information, and home to the Devil's Tower Lodge and Guiding service. A fantastic place to stay just minutes from the climbing. Check out their fly-by footage of the tower!
Devil's Tower Climbing - Great site full of useful information, and home to the Devil's Tower Lodge and Guiding service. A fantastic place to stay just minutes from the climbing. Check out their fly-by footage of the tower!
Classic Climbing Routes at Devils Tower
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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