How to cut static rope?

I have a 150ft static line and want to break it down. To make some ropes for anchors. I was thinking some 25ft and 50ft segments, but I don't know what the best way to cut lengths would be. Any suggestions from experience? https://100001.onl/

If approx measruments are okay, measure your wingspan then do as many armfuls get you to the length you want. Mark with tape or a sharpie. Once you have your sections, use a hot knife. A butter knife on the stove works just fine. Put some tension in the rope and cut your marks with the hot knife. Wear gloves and make sure there is proper ventilation. 

I like to use an old smooth faced ceramic or porcelain tile to roll and shape the freshly cut & still molten end. It’s a bit of an art, but smooshing the end a little and rolling the sides can help ensure 1) all the end strands of the sheath bond together so they won’t get frayed and 2) the ends of the sheath material bond to the ends of the core strands so the sheath doesn’t separate from the core. And 3) you don’t end up with a mushroom head at the end of the rope that can get stuck on stuff. YMMV & may not work at all with aramid fibers.

hot knife

Tone Loc wrote:

I like to use an old smooth faced ceramic or porcelain tile to roll and shape the freshly cut & still molten end. It’s a bit of an art, but smooshing the end a little and rolling the sides can help ensure 1) all the end strands of the sheath bond together so they won’t get frayed and 2) the ends of the sheath material bond to the ends of the core strands so the sheath doesn’t separate from the core. And 3) you don’t end up with a mushroom head at the end of the rope that can get stuck on stuff. YMMV & may not work at all with aramid fibers.

I’ve never been able to avoid the mushroomed rope end after cutting. Is there a bootleg homemade hot knife technique that actually works well? My rope end never seems to get molten enough.

I’ve tried a lighter and gas range on the end after cutting, and wrapping with tape then melting, but nothing seems to get that nice factory cut.

I can never achieve as perfect looking as factory, but functionality is equal. Takes practice. I use a propane torch and have a very old, very dull linoleum knife I dedicate to this job. I lay the rope across the tile, heat up the knife until it glows, then just sort of plunge cut it. I immediately roll the ends of the rope on the tile and try to shape them. I leave the torch on b/c I usually end up having to re-heat and reshape the end a bit. But, carefully, just enough to get the job done. You can definitely end up chasing perfection counter-productively. An advanced method that I do but don’t recommend (YGD) is licking your fingers and rolling the still liquid hot end between your fingers. Re-lick liberally and frequently…;)

If you have or know someone with a soldering gun these rope cutting tips work well.

https://a.co/d/0Tz7lfN

Tape and cut with a sharp knife before trying to melt the end, with tape still on, melt the end, take of tape carefully, peeling it off towards the end, with low heat slightly melt the cover.  If you cut with heat, use the least amount to avoid the mushrooming.

A friend used to use a metal thimble to shape the end of the rope. After cutting he would make the end of the rope soft and melty with a lighter, then jam the rope end into the thimble until it cooled into the tapered shape. Obviously that ends its use for any actual sewing.

I usually use an old leather garden glove to manually pinch the melted end together. Again, not great for the glove long-term. 

You can also just shave off the mushroomed material. Not as nice as the factory cut but it doesn't get stuck in knots.

25 feet of static?  Why not use a cordelette?  100 foot is a good length for an anchor rope - enough for big V anchor and tether in most situations.  50' sometimes useful.  Can't see why you'd go shorter than that.

I use a good pair of scissors to cut ropes, cuts cleaner than a knife. Melt end with a lighter.

I find it important to melt the core together before the sheath.  After a clean cut is made, use a lighter to melt the core strands. Lick your fingers good and squeeze the melted ends of the core together tight. Mold all the molten core fibers into a compact, smooth blunt end.  Then carefully heat up the sheath fibers with the lighter (overdue it and they shrink back). With freshly licked fingers, pull/form the melted sheath over the melted core to form a nice fused end that wont separate or frey.