Rock fall incident report

Figured I would do a quick right up about an  incident that occured when climbing today. 

  My partner and I had climbed a few sport routes and we still had some energy and daylight to burn so we decided to stop at an old trad climb that was mostly climbed in 70's and 80's (not much anymore). I had  lead it a couple years back and found it enjoyable.

 Partner racked up to lead and went on his way , about 5/8 of the way he got to a blank section that he wasn't comfortable leading so he down climbed to his last two cams and I lowered him.

Is started to sprinkle and than rain as I was racking up but decided I would give it a go to retrieve his gear. Rock was slippery but managable, I had to climb a little to the right to get drier rock that was sorta protected by protruding rock. I was climbing up to clean the next cam and placed a high hand on feature overhead to balance as I step up. Than it fell off , a section about 8" wide x 10" thick and ~36" long. It luckily seperated into several pieces largest about 8"x10"x12". I reacted as soon as I saw it coming by throwing myself away from the wall. But my right arm and leg to several blows. Partner said it was the craziest thing to look up and see rock that looked like it just exploded. After dust settled I reluctantly extended my leg against wall and was relieved I could support my weight. I climbed up and cleaned all but top two cams and lowered because I was having issues with arm and leg. 

At the ground we picked up and I noticed that rock fall partially severed one of my half ropes. 

I figured I would share this experience and a picture of leg, it doesn't really show extent of the swelling but you get general idea. I feel very lucky that I did not take any rockfall to the head , face ,or chest. I hope being able to share this will help others be aware of the hazards and hopefully avoid the same situation. I hadn't really even weighted the rock and it showed no signs of being loose when I placed my hand on it.

Be safe out there and climb on!

Glad you made it (relatively) out unscathed.
fwiw, you might want to specify the area/route if you’re looking to help people avoid the exact issue you experienced. 

Lucky you….. we all have 9 lives, you now have 8.

I’m very happy to not read about a Memorial. 

Spearfish Canyon, I presume.

Yes it was up Spearfish Canyon on a old route that doesn't see much traffic. On the laccolith north of Bridal Veil. 

I always like to share that a 1 cubic foot piece of granite is roughly 165lbs. Most rock between 150ish-180ish, which IMO, is very good to know when faced with using detached rock for anchors.
Each of those pieces you describe were > 100lbs.
Very little damage considering! Glad that's all that happened.

Thanks for the write up Scott..Glad you are relatively OK. Rock falls is scary. Cut ropes terrifying. You are super fortunate. 

You said you had to climb right to avoid wet rock.

 Was the rock then " off route" per se?

And do you think the freeze/ thaw  cycle of the canyon played a role at all? I am always canyon cautious this time of year. 

I wasn't exactly off route, but definatly put me directly in line for impending rockfall. I definately think the freeze thaw was the culprit. 

I experienced sth similar in an abandoned porphyry quarry that was converted to a sport climbing area, in Germany. It was the first warm day after the winter, some people were climbing a route next to us, when suddenly a complete section of the wall just crumbled away under the leader. The belayer completely disappeared under a cloud of rock dust. I ran over, expecting the worst, however both climbers were very dusty but unhurt apart from a few scratches and bruises. 

Walking dead boxers, awesome. Glad you’re OK

Sadly that freeze thaw cycle is too real this time of year.

Glad you are relatively OK 

Thank you all, definatley count myself lucky! 

Umm. Is that your underwear around your ankles?

Greg D wrote:

Umm. Is that your underwear around your ankles?

They are pajama pants lol, had to trade my climbing shorts out as soon as I got home because my leg swelled up to the point I was going to have to cut them off if I waited any longer.