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Is it Risk or out of Cash.

Original Post
Paul Ross · · Keswick, Cumbria · Joined Apr 2001 · Points: 22,316

Been looking at "What's Knew" Seems like trad is now well out of fashion .. its all bouldering and sport. Is it because climbers no longer like risk or are they running out of cash to buy the expensive trad gear ? 

M M · · Maine · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 2

Commitment in general

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

Feeling feisty again Paul!!!!

Plenty of hard trad being done still, though with more people climbing overall--and more doing sport and bouldering ( a lot of which can be pretty committing ), this aspect may not be as visible as in the past.

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 460

my guess is he can't get it up anymore so has reverted to trolling on the internet..

ed esmond · · The Paris of VT... · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 0
Nick Goldsmith wrote:

my guess is he can't get it up anymore so has reverted to trolling on the internet..

Ouch!!

Isn’t there a different, more sensitive way you could say this???

ed “nah, most likely not….” e

J L · · Craggin' · Joined Jul 2023 · Points: 4

Enough good stuff got bolted.

T Taylor · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2022 · Points: 219

What is easier to find a rock or a rock with enough weaknesses for gear but simultaneously strong enough to hold gear?

WF WF51 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 0

A TikTok influencer? Huh, I thought I was logging on to Mountain Project.

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,242

I put up trad climbs when I am too scared to commit on my hard sport routes, and too broke to bolt any more!

In all seriousness, there will always be more potential for sport and boulder development than trad development, at least here on the Front Range.  Establishing new trad routes takes more time as well, most cracks don't start out life in a pristine state.  So given its harder to find good trad routes and harder to establish, it does make sense more boulder and sport development occurs.  

Climbing has become a social sport and the majority of the population gravitate towards lower risk/ higher reward time investment in more social settings,leading to sport/bouldering popularity.  There are plenty of people still putting up rad new trad climbs, you just don't see it through all the noise.  Don't worry, the torch was not dropped yet.

JaredG · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 17
T Taylor wrote:

What is easier to find a rock or a rock with enough weaknesses for gear but simultaneously strong enough to hold gear?

This. All the plum trad lines have been plucked. All you need for good a sport route is a blank face, a bolt gun, and a chisel.

oldfattradguuy kk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 172
Nick Goldsmith wrote:

my guess is he can't get it up anymore so has reverted to trolling on the internet..

Dude is likely still more of a baddass than you can be in your wildest dreams, gets it done without having to tell everyone on the interweb ;)

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240
Paul Ross wrote:

Been looking at "What's Knew" Seems like trad is now well out of fashion .. its all bouldering and sport. Is it because climbers no longer like risk or are they running out of cash to buy the expensive trad gear ? 

I don't get surprised with trends much, but this has been going on for over five years now and has improved my life tremendously.  Less dogs, music, crying babies and rescues.  

Cherokee Nunes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Testosterone shortage, in the main.

Eric Craig · · Santa Cruz · Joined Sep 2024 · Points: 0

So you all are saying trad climbing is falling out of favor?

I personally would say outdoor bouldering is very popular, based on what I have seen in a few trips to Castle Rock State Park,  and Indian Rock (mostly Mortar Rock) in Berkeley. At Mortar they mostly seem to be hanging out with a gazillion pads spread everywhere, and  blocking the pedestrian walkway. But The Pit doesn't seem to popular. 

One day at Castle Rock I told a group of young'ns about the birth of the idea for Boulder Pads, of course we didn't imagine that it would really come true...........

Rprops · · Nevada · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 2,422
Paul Ross wrote:

or are they running out of cash to buy the expensive trad gear ? 

Apparently you don’t know how much portable fans and livable vans cost.

apogee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0

It is the inexorable pattern of human behavior to make everything easier and safer. Thus resulting in the soft, overly sensitive creatures that we have become.

Rob Dillon · · Tamarisk Clearing · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 738

Maybe boulderers and sportos are just the ones who feel compelled to tell everyone about their super sikk new find

Patrick M · · Greely Hill, CA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10

1/10

oldfattradguuy kk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 172
Eric Craig wrote:

One day at Castle Rock I told a group of young'ns about the birth of the idea for Boulder Pads, of course we didn't imagine that it would really come true...........

Aren’t the pads because bouldering makes people horny and it makes sex in the woods more comfortable? 

Paul Ross · · Keswick, Cumbria · Joined Apr 2001 · Points: 22,316
T Taylor wrote:

What is easier to find a rock or a rock with enough weaknesses for gear but simultaneously strong enough to hold gear?

I never had a problem finding unclimbed multi pitch rock both in Colorado and Utah and sure if blank sections appeared we placed a bolt for aid or protection ... sorry I do find your post  confusing .

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 460
oldfattradguuy kk wrote:

Dude is likely still more of a baddass than you can be in your wildest dreams, gets it done without having to tell everyone on the interweb ;)

to suggest that Paul Ross doesn't spray is fucking hilarious. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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